2018 Leipold Silvaner Gassberg Trocken
Item No. 15849
About This WineA forty dollar Silvaner is probably the last thing on earth I should be emailing about. The fact that I am, unapologetically, should tell you something. This is, quite simply, one of the greatest young Silvaners I've had. Or, put another way, it is what I search for but rarely find in Silvaner, and that is very simply: precision. Silvaner is unquestionably a grape with a profound potential for soil-transparency. But too often, for me, even the top wines are a bit too hefty, a bit too weighed down with lanolin and waxy fruit notes to show the razor-sharp, cut lines that Silvaner can have. Too many, and again I'm talking about my own preferences, not a universal good, are too much Cote d'Or when what I want is Chablis. (The Silvaners of Stefan Vetter, while very different from Leipold's, flaunt a similar cut and sharpness, something I crave.)
If you had the 2017 or 2018 Schilfsandstein Silvaner from the first pack and liked it, this will blow your mind because it is even finer, leaner, more transparent and cut. This is Franconia with the cut of a Saar Kabinett Trocken. If you had the sixer and didn't like this as much, that's also ok - then skip this.
I'll just quote my initial notes because, even if they are a bit embarrassing, they are honest (note I am literally smelling and tasting and just maniacally typing away - normally I will go back and edit to make it coherent English): "This might be superb. Very precise, clear, sharp nose - the nose is reticent, but the palate is staining, incisive, cuts and hurts, lemon zest, holy tactile and impressive. Jesus. Bitter on the finish it’s so incisive and staining. You do feel the alcohol in the finish, spirit-like and bitter, but I don’t mind it (feels phenolic) and the palate is so clear and fine and precise… it’s like the weight is only in the burn on the finish, not at all on the palate. Wow. This was just the first sip. This is just stunning – airy, crystalline nose of salt and lemon, fresh greens (boston bib lettuce), garden notes – so integrated, unified. Beautifully mineral and rocky wowowowow. Lime zest woven into this – such a fruit delicate fruit spectrum, fine weaves of so much various citrus woven together. A beautiful play of extract, glazed but sharp and refreshing, balance, energy, clarity, vigor. This is just a beautiful Silvaner. Has the energy and lightness of Keller’s basic Silvaner with the depth and power of the Feuervogl. Stunning. Def. lighter and more agile, more citrus-driven on the palate compared to the Schilfsandstein. I LOVE it. Salt and body odor, in a great way. Almost evaporative. Yet so damn long and persistent."
I can't wait to taste more Peter. Find him on IG @silvanerlover - that handle tells you a lot.
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