The '89s are rounded and luxurious texturally yet also stunningly elegant, sculpted. The acidity seems to style and buoy all that glowing citrus, straw, honey and lanolin. It's mind-blowingly layered and beautifully elegant.
In the know Burgundy fanatics have been deeply impressed by what's happening at Hudelot-Noëllat. Charles Van Canneyt arrived on at the domaine and catapulted the estate to a whole new level of quality. They have become some of the most sought Burgundies.
A few weeks ago, I was absolutely shocked by a bottle of 2006 Dujac Luisants Blanc. It was one of the greatest '06 White Burgs that I've tasted.As usually happens, that bottle sent me on a tasting (and buying) frenzy. My biggest takeaway was that I'd neglected Dujac's whites...
Lilbert's Champagnes capture Côte des Blancs' chalky, kinetic energy with a striking precision, whispering nuance and captivating complexity. They thrive on finesse and an intricately complicated presentation of saline minerality, chalk, and always complex and precise length.
Duplessis' 2012 Les Clos dramatizes the brilliance, texture and overall, pristine nature of the vintage. There's an incredible amount of depth combined with zippy citrus notes and loads of seashell minerality. All of this is cast in very sharp focus.
This is as pure, as focused, as intense, as filigreed an expression of dry Riesling as exists. Abtserde seems to consolidate the best attributes of Keller's Hubacker, Kirchspiel and Morstein and take them to a thunderingly complex conclusion. It has the power of Hubacker...
To focus only on how packed and powerful Clos des Epeneaux is would miss a key component. With time, it's capable of heartbreaking elegance. For all of its muscle, as Clos des Epeneaux evolves, an emphatic silken element emerges.
Colin-Morey's 2011s are just stunning. Pierre-Yves himself said that the 2011 is notable for its balance. It's a sort of elusive descriptor, but within that delicate equilibrium lies the vintage's clear fruit, harnessed with intense minerality, richness, and vigor that are...