Nestling Up to La Tâche
2007 Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
Coveted, Culty Vosne at the Lowest Price in the Nation
"Malconsorts, however, is certainly full, if indeed sturdy, and at its very best not far behind La Tâche in richness," says Clive Coates. Dujac and de Montille make excellent wines here, he acknowledges. "The best wines, however, today come from Sylvain Cathiard."
So why don't you hear much about Cathiard's Malconsorts? Because not much of it exists. Small site, tiny production - you know the story. But poke through the world's most serious Burgundy collections - those lined with DRC, Roumier and Rousseau - and you'll find those elite bottles hoarded alongside vintages of Cathiard Malconsorts.
Those in the know keep fairly quiet, because there's incredible value to be found here. These are noble Vosne-Romanées - the site backs straight into La Tâche, after all. As Coates says, the best Malconsorts very nearly hold their own to that Grand Cru neighbor, yet the Malconsorts are significantly less in price.
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Today we present just such a thing: 2007 Cathiard 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts at as low as $159.95 on the four-pack. As the Burghound notes, "I very much liked the Cathiard 07s and at this early juncture, would rate them [...] not far below the 05s." The 05s were killer, and I don't disagree with him.
When I tasted Cathiard's 07s, I was amazed at how beautiful, how generous and well-structured they were. Sylvain Cathiard took over full control of the family domaine in the mid-90s, bettering it across the board due to his fastidiousness in the vineyards and careful, non-interventionist winemaking. Certainly in the last decade he's stormed the elite Côte de Nuits scene, moving the Cathiard name into cult Burgundy status with big demand and tiny availability.
The house has a stylish signature that straddles the line between a juicy, modern polish and a true Burgundian typicity of finesse and elegance. This allowed the 07s to come through with a classic, high-toned spiciness yet a surprising, lovely bit of richness, almost a creaminess. Every individual wine spoke of its unique home, and the Malconsorts, distinct and precise in its presentation of each berry, cocoa and smoky black earth element, certainly gave definitive evidence of the good company in which it sits.
I think the general misconception is that 07 red Burgs are all for drinking now, but when they're from such a pedigreed site and honest, careful producer, these are certainly ageworthy, and this 07 Malconsorts definitely has five to ten years before it hits its apex, though the fruit and balancing acid make it very tempting already. We've priced four-packs today with this curve in mind, as I believe they're well worth experiencing now as well as resting, as mentioned above, next to those other cellar greats.
To place your order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Wine arrives Spring 2011
NET | No further discount