Punching Above Its Weight Class
2007 Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Sporting Grand Cru Weight and Depth, But Not Price
"...rich, full, concentrated and almost painfully intense flavors that explode like a vinous bomb on the balanced and gorgeously long finish." - Burghound
Meadows is right: Fèvre's 07 MDT is explosive and gorgeous, and it punches way above its weight class.
The price today, though, sits much lower than you'd expect: down to $39.50 a bottle on the four-pack - well below the lowest price in the nation.
This is a site that gets the "geek drool" going with its grandeur, its profile of powerful richness and depth glowing through a complex stained glass window of racy fruit, flowers and acid.
And then there's the mineral - the 07 vintage's uncannily pure aromas of crushed-up oyster shells, the almost tactile crunch of fresh, rain-slicked rocks. As the Burghound says, this is "almost painfully intense" - as in, it keeps you coming, begging, humbly and gratefully back for more. More thrilling with every sip. Hurts so good.
This is the 07 vintage speaking up in its truest voice, calling all the mineral junkies, as this MDT, according to winemaker Didier Séguier, is booming with "plenty of Chablis character" to satiate the purists.
Montée de Tonnerre, truly the heavyweight of the Chablis premiers crus, falls right in line behind the grands reputation-wise, geographically even, as it's just across a skinny path from Les Clos and home to a very comparably light, sandy topsoil over Kimmeridgian.
Since Séguier took the reins at Fèvre with Henriot providing the sled-pulling financials, the quality here has seen exponential growth. The use of oak has been toned down; the fruit purity and transparency turned way up. Fèvre now sits in the company of Dauvissat and Raveneau, at least in terms of the caliber of the wines. Lucky for us - for now - Fèvre's prices don't reach those levels.
One-upping its peer Chablis premier crus, this is a bottle that, as Meadows points out, "sports grand cru weight and depth" - it will certainly stand its ground in your cellar alongside the grands, and you'd be well advised to allow a bottle (or three) this opportunity.
To place your order, please email us at email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Director, Fine & Rare Wines
Crush Wine & Spirits
Burghound: Even with the hail shock to the vines, this is clearly phenolically ripe, in fact it's elegant, pure and classy with its usual white flower aromas that are nuanced by oyster shell and obvious minerality that continue onto the rich, full, concentrated and almost painfully intense flavors that explode like a vinous bomb on the balanced and gorgeously long finish. This sports grand cru weight and depth and should age well over the medium term.
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