08 Chablis #1 Value: Fevre Fourchaume Vaulorent

Posted by CrushWine

The Chablis Value of the Vintage
2008 Fèvre Chablis 1er Fourchaume Vaulorent
The Premier of 1er Crus

"A terrific wine that could easily pass for a Grand Cru."

This is the best value of the 2008 vintage in Chablis. To be perfectly blunt, this is the best value by a long shot.

Consider that the Burghound’s top seven wines of the vintage are Fèvre’s six Grand Crus... and today's Fourchaume Vaulorent. Indeed, in nearly everything but price, this is Grand Cru Chablis. Note: This is not the regular Fourchaume; this is a special bottling sourced from the "Vignoble de Vaulorent" parcel which, in fact, backs right up against the Grand Cru Preuses, see map below.

For all collectors, this is a wine that deserves substantial space in the cellar. For everyone else, if you thought you knew what Chablis was, this is a wine whose finesse, purity and clarity will knock all your preconceptions out of the water.

This is a Chablis with a light-bright-white minerality, a simply blazing acidity that cuts stylishly and forcefully across the palate, leaving reverberations of green citrus and stone on the palate for well beyond the one-minute mark. The force here is nearly palpable, which is sort of amazing given the razor-sharp dimensions of the wine.

Raveneau and Dauvissat, the two titans of Chablis, deserve the attention and the soaring prices they have come to demand. But just as equally, Fèvre deserves to be included in the ranks among the best in Chablis. Andrew Jefford states it pretty bluntly in The New France, calling Fèvre: "the greatest domaine in the region." The difference is style, not quality. And frankly, in 2008, Fèvre may very well have crafted the top collection.

There is an EXTREME clarity to the 2008 Fèvres, a perfect affinity of the lip-smacking juiciness of the vintage with the etched, super-fine-line style of Fèvre.

Jefford states it well, "If there is a single domain in Chablis whose wines should be able to express every nuance of these unique soils and sites, Fèvre is its name. Should; now does," he affirms, referring to Henriot’s purchase of the domain some years ago and the installation of winemaker Didier Séguier, a fanatic for high quality who has made it his own personal mission to bring this domain to its full potential. Jefford notes, "No doubt, too, Henriot’s wealth permits the decisions (yield, equipment, labor, time) that enable these wines to be what they have been since 1998: consistently outstanding."

Séguier has severely cut back on the use of new wood and has ceased stirring the lees, resulting in wines of ever greater transparency of terroir. The Fourchaume Vaulorent reverberates with this sense of place (and yes, we're consciously using the word "reverberate" again - it's just too appropriate for this wine).

Largely because we want these wines for our own cellars, we have gone LONG on the 2008 Fèvres and have been able to secure simply outstanding pricing. Already very reasonably priced given the exceptional quality, today our pricing is ludicrously low. Alas, it is good for this single parcel of Fèvre only and all orders are subject to confirmation.

Please reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463 to place your order.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wines
Crush Wine & Spirits

2008 Fèvre Chablis

1er Cru Fourchaume "Vignoble de Vaulorent"

Burghound: "This is one of those wines where you can sense the sheer depth of material simply based on the nose as the very dense fruit displays additional hints of stone, tidal pool, algae, oyster shell and a mix of green fruit and white flower aromas that give way to concentrated, serious and rich flavors that are actually quite fine before culminating in an explosively long and palate staining finish. A terrific wine that could easily pass for a grand cru."

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