"Under Veil" but No Longer Under the Radar
2008 Macle Côtes du Jura
Jura's Pinnacle of Elegance and Refinement
Since we first started offering Macle's Côtes du Jura - four vintages ago! - we've loved witnessing this wine go from relative obscurity to up-and-coming darling of the U.S. wine scene.
The wines and their producer deserve it.
Jean Macle, who now applies his craft with his son, Laurent, is simply tops in the Jura when it comes to rendering sous voile ("under veil" or semi-oxidative style) wines with striking breed and harmony. These are some of the most complex, singular and food-friendly wines out there, and Macle's version really does represent the pinnacle of elegance and refinement from this region.
At roughly $30 a bottle, Macle's Côtes du Jura, along with German Riesling and Muscadet, is also one of the great white wine values out there.
Macle's position at the top of this category was secured thanks to his ability to weave, with absolute clarity, the long repertoire of Jura's wild, earthy flavors into a unified tapestry that has an undeniable, mineral-driven elegance. Signature notes include mirabelle plum, Meyer lemon marmalade, moss, mushrooms, pine needles, crushed baking spices and stony minerality - just to name a few.
For all their eccentric quirks, the wines move amazingly across the palate with a calm grace, a seamless oil- and mineral-infused spine lending great direction and focus. This is especially true in the 2008 vintage, which is only looking to be better and better as time goes on. This might be my favorite since 2004, for the way the wines show all their signature notes done up in great concentration but with plenty of powerful acidity.
It's this same structured energy that also guarantees that these will have no problem seeing their 20th birthday. We've priced four-packs very sharply today for that exact reason. Few wines at this price point boast such great aging potential.
The complexity and elegance of Macle's wines should come as no surprise: Beyond the skillful vine-tending and winemaking, the Chardonnay and Savagnin vines for Macle's Côtes du Jura are from a choice plot that was part of Château-Chalon until the appellation’s boundaries were redrawn in the 1980s.
Sous voile wines' place to shine is at the table. A few of my favorite pairings with the Côtes du Jura include a simple hunk of Comté cheese and crusty bread, roast chicken and potato-cauliflower purée spiked with walnut oil or Jura's most famous dish: chicken with cream, vin jaune and morels.
For Macle's wines, we always give this disclaimer, in case you're new here: These are beautiful yet unique wines - there is an oxidative tang to the wines that is very distinct. If you're unfamiliar with these, try a bottle before you go long!
If you're one of the loyal who know and love Macle, by all means, give us your maximum order. The increase in notoriety makes these wines, which are already in short supply (Macle only has 12 hectares of land), even harder to secure in quantity. Of late, demand for Macle has tended to be greater than supply. To place your order, please email us at email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
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