Chevillon-Breaking Out
2009 Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges "VV"
and Premier Cru Vaucrains
"Readers should know however that the 2009 vintage produced, in several cases, the best examples that I have ever seen..." -Burghound
Apparently the word has gotten out there about Chevillon's 2009s. Our stash of Roncieres last week sold out at an alarming rate.
Frankly, it's nice to see this. Chevillon has been producing benchmark Nuits for years: true to type Nuits with brash, blanketing intensity and that distinctive dark, earthy, and animal quality. What happens to the wines in the cellar is legendary.
Today, we're showing opposite poles of the Chevillon line-up, and highlighting the consistency of quality that spans it: on one side the "simpler" village Nuits-St.-Georges VV and on the other side the vaunted 1er Cru Vaucrains.
To begin with, let us say that the village 2009 Chevillon is an old-vine stunner, a plush number that has the weight and depth of many a 1er Cru. The Burghound writes of "intense middle weight flavors." (See below for full Burghound note.) Part of this is Chevillon and their textural style, part of it is the natural generosity of the vintage. This is stunning village Nuits and at $45, a steal. In the context of Chevillon, this is fairly accessible, though five years in the cellar will allow its earthy, mineral, sauvage side to come more into the forefront.
The 1er Cru Vaucrains is one of the gems in the Chevillon stable. It is sourced from a tiny 1.5ha section of eighty-year-old vines. This promises to be an epic bottle - Vaucrains produces one of the best Nuits-St.-Georges out there, very close to Les St. Georges - powerful, incredibly deep, mineral and sauvage.
This is one of those rare, semi-affordable monuments from 2009 Burgundy. The Burghound writies, "This should be very long-lived because despite being a very big wine, the balance is faultless." (See below for full Burghound note.)
For Chevillon, for the moment, the pricing simply hasn’t caught up to the quality, particularly in the heralded 2009 vintage.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine and Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits