2004 G. Mascarello Barolo Villero: The Only Bottles in the U.S.

Posted by CrushWine

The Muse for the Mascarello Geeks
2004 G. Mascarello Barolo Villero
The Only Bottles Available in the U.S.

Mauro Mascarello is one of Piedmont's greats, a peer of Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello. And while his Monprivato is the precious gem in the portfolio that everyone clamors for, his Barolo Villero hangs out more quietly, a bit unassumingly, yet undeniably beautifully...

The Villero seems content to be the muse for mostly the Mascarello geeks, at least in the U.S., where this bottling is rarely seen.

Matter of fact, the few cases of 2004 G. Mascarello Barolo Villero that we have on offer today are the only bottles available in the country in this vintage. There’s not a lot of wine, so this offer goes out only to those of you who have supported our Barolo program.

Those of you who know and love the Burgundy-like finesse, the alluring nuance of character that G. Mascarello coaxes out of his Barolos will not want to skip over this. Today we offer the 2004 G. Mascarello Barolo Villero at $85.95 a bottle.

Villero is, along with Monprivato, a top site in the Castiglione Falletto commune of Barolo, and G. Mascarello’s is a beautiful articulation of it. If the site seems to get less "play" than Monprivato, it's one of those that seems to be recognized, albeit more quietly, as truly great by the real Piedmont cognoscenti. In the best producers' hands, Villeros are stunning wines - witness not only today's from G. Mascarello but also Brovia or Giacosa's examples from this vineyard.

Compared to the Monprivato, the Villero's expression is more plush and generous, more feminine next to Monprivato's taut masculinity. The site itself, of which G. Mascarello owns 0.62 hectares, is southwest of Monprivato and with the same exposition, though there’s more brown clay and gray sand here, and the wines are comparatively bolder with seductive fruit, the spice and flowers coming in more subtly.

Galloni takes note of the “silky, refined tannins” that bolster soft, elegant fruit and earth notes, Barolo’s signature tar and roses more delicately done up with Mascarello’s signature elegance. This soft prettiness, though, should not be perceived to mean that this won’t last in the cellar. While more accessible early-on than the Monprivato, this still has the stuffing to age. As a case in point: Multiple bottles of the 1978 Villero, opened on multiple occasions, have been fantastic.

The 2004 vintage was outstanding in Piedmont - really one of the last decades best - and although the whole region really excelled here, Mascarello particularly nailed it. Today's wine already has a few years on it (the 07s are about to be released), so this is just beginning to show off. Galloni’s suggested drinking window is suitably now through 2024.

I’m a big fan of more under-the-radar bottlings from benchmark producers, as they can offer many of the signatures of the more clamored-for bottlings in a fascinatingly different expression of terroir. It's a very cool thing to be able compare and contrast when you’ve got both wines to pull out of the cellar.

To order, please reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

2004 G. Mascarello Barolo Villero

Special Email Bottle Price: $85.95
No compare-at pricing available in the U.S.

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