Brilliance and Power
2005 Ganevat Vin Jaune
Jean-François Ganevat is best known for his ouille (topped up wines). But he also makes a very hard to find Vin Jaune.
Stunning, but very rare. There's only one other listing for Ganevat's 2005 Vin Jaune. When I visited Ganevat in 2010, he said that in good vintages he produces around 600 bottles of Vin Jaune.
And, to be honest, we have a very small amount. It's impossible not to imagine needing to make allocations. This is all to say that I'm going to keep this brief.
Ganevat's Vin Jaune delivers a level of elegance, cut and purity that few if any Vin Jaunes deliver. There's an undeniable intensity, but also a tension-filled refinement.
2005 was a very strong vintage for Vin Jaune and even in the context of this great vintage, Ganevat's version is really impressive. I've drunk a few bottles of it over the past year and each time I have been blown away.
One of the things that really impresses me with Ganevat's Vin Jaune is how it combines such a spectrum of flavor with such harmony and poise. Think of flowers, marmalade, spice, moss, mushrooms and citrus zest. Above all, there's power and brilliance.
This is a beautiful example of one of the world's most singular wines. It's probably a good idea to cut this short - Ganevat's reputation is huge and the quantities are really small.
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