Sharp Pricing on a Gateway Burg
2008 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin VV
This is a serious "gateway Burg," so be careful.
You might think, it's no big deal, I'm just gonna order up a 4-pack of this Gevrey, just to have some good Burgundy around the house...
Next thing you know you're bicycling to work in January because you sold the car to finance the basement cellar and the kids' toys (once safely stored in the basement) are now out rusting in the backyard.
This is how it all starts.
Yes, "gateway Burgs" are serious wines (do not let the more affordable price tag fool you), and few are more serious, or frankly, sexier, than Jean-Marie Fourrier's Gevrey-Chambertin VV.
Jean-Marie Fourrier took over his family's domaine in 1994, after working under Henri Jayer. While the estate was always good, and the landholdings great, his winemaking soon brought the estate into Burgundy’s big league.
Today, Fourrier's are among the most talked about, hardest-to-find Burgs out there - the Clos St. Jacques and Griotte-Chambertin are wines that disappear immediately.
But today let's avoid the myopic focus the market encourages, because Fourrier's village Gevrey is about as good as it gets.
Fourrier's style is flashy - there is glossy, succulent, perfumed fruit, ripe strawberries and cherries that seem to have been pulverized into a fine texture, with all the right curves in all the right places. This is not a shy wine...
Yet, for all the glamour, all the style, there is also substance. It's an extreme balance in a way, because the ripe, opulent fruit is countered by a very firm spine, a limestone-inspired minerality, a whip-smart tension that brings a serious cut to the backend. Especially in the classic 2008 vintage.
Meadows calls this "an ultra-pure style of Burgundy," in the same vein as Barthod or Lafarge or Angerville, though with the firm punch and stature of Gevrey. This is the "old new wave of Burgundy." It's a domaine that combines the best of both worlds: old traditions with a modern sense of exploration and openmindedness.
You'll note the use of the "Vieilles Vignes" on his village wine. Indeed, for this wine and for all his wines, he only uses the grapes that are from vines that are over 30 years old. He vinifies each plot separately - today’s Gevrey VV is from Champs Perrières in Brochon, in the northern section of the commune.
Today's wine straddles two worlds, too: It’s at a price point and in an accessible enough style that will pique the interest of the more casual Burgundy explorer, though it’s of a caliber and character that the most seriously Burgundy-obsessed will have a hard time not falling for.
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Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Special Email Bottle Price: $51.95
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Stephen Tanzer, IWC: Palish red. Captivating, expressive aromas of cherry, smoke, mocha and underbrush; slightly exotic in a positive way. Sweet on entry, then sappy in the middle, thanks to firm acidity and a saline quality. Complex, soil-driven wine but not at all dry.
Special Email 4-Pack Price: $199.80 ($49.95 / btl)
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