"Zen-like"
2008 Lafarge Volnay
Bourgogne Rouge - Volnay - Volnay VS
Clos du Château des Ducs - Caillerets - Clos des Chênes
"...the finest red Burgundy that is fragrant and feminine, yet intense and long-lasting... look no further than the wines of Domaine Michel Lafarge." Clive Coates, Côte d'Or
Today an offer for the purists, for the die-hard Burgundy geeks... because it doesn't get any purer, any finer than the needle-point Volnays of Michel and Frédéric Lafarge.
The entire 2008 collection is on offer today at the sharpest pricing in the land (by a long shot) - from the overachieving Bourgogne Rouge to the gems of the stable, the 1er Crus Clos du Château des Ducs, Caillerets and Clos du Chênes. Full tasting notes below.
 |
These are wines about mineral, finesse, purity of flavor - they are direct and defined and can have almost forceful mineral spines, yet Volnay is always subtle. The Burghound constantly refers to the "Zen-like" quality of the wines. I also find that with a great Lafarge, the flavors feel as if they are somehow woven tighter than nearly any other red from the Côte d'Or, an intensity that is striking given the finesse and agility of the wines themselves.
It should also be said that the vibrancy of the 2008 vintage has found its voice at Lafarge. While these are neither fleshy nor flashy wines, they are fragrant, perfumed, stony, bright and pure. To quote the Burghound quoting Michel and Frédéric: "the vintage is one where the terroir of each and every wine is front and center."
Sounds real good to us.
Even in a region as considered and thorough as Burgundy, Michel and Frédéric have reputations as being incredibly meticulous and detailed, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Indeed, while the Château du Clos des Ducs and Caillerets are simply majestic Volnay, there is a stony rigor and energy to the Bourgogne Rouge that offers it a seriousness well beyond its rather humble price tag. In other words, this is NOT an afterthought wine as so many undoubtedly are. At $23.95, there are few better Burgundy values.
The regular Volnay is glorious and the "VS," sourced from older wines, triumphant. Both are very deserving of some space in your cellar.
For the most refined expression of Volnay, the Premier Crus are simply the best. They are also made in ridiculously small quantities - priority will be given to balanced orders.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Stephen Bitterolf
Wine Director
Crush Wine & Spirits
2008 Lafarge Bourgogne Rouge
Burghound: Somewhat surprisingly, this is earthier than either of the Passe Tout Grains examples where the nose offers up additional red berry fruit aromas and a hint of underbrush that precedes nicely rich and concentrated flavors that are supported by firm tannins and a moderately rustic finish. This too delivers fine quality for its level plus it will age.
2008 Lafarge Volnay
Burghound: An airy, cool and lacy nose that is very Volnay offers up notes of both red and blue pinot fruit plus nuances of warm earth and violets before introducing vibrant, detailed and delicious middle weight flavors that possess good focus though there is subtle hint of dryness that is probably exacerbated by the copious gas.
2008 Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
Burghound: A much more restrained but more complex nose of dense red berry fruit trimmed in earth and wet stone nuances, both of which can also be found on the more concentrated, naturally sweet and delicious medium-bodied flavors that display firm but not aggressive tannins and good length. There is a hint of dryness here as well though again, it's probably an effect of the considerable CO2 present.
2008 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs
Burghound: A nose of pure pinot and dissolved mineral notes complement to perfection the detailed and stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess fine volume and a gorgeously balanced finish. The harmony here is Zen-like.
2008 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets
Burghound: A superbly complex nose, indeed it's close between this and the Clos des Chênes for which possesses the most aromatic complexity. Red currant, plum, earth, spice and violet aromas marry into rich, intense and strikingly precise stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that display gorgeous purity of expression on the precise and tension filled finish that delivers excellent length.
2008 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
Burghound: This too serves up a remarkably layered nose that displays more earth and less spice as well as very fresh and cool aromas of red and blue pinot, floral notes and an obvious mineral influence that continues onto the tautly muscular and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors that are long, serious and focused. It's interesting to compare the quality of the tannins between this and the Caillerets - here they are denser but less fine and as a consequence, this will need a few extra years of cellar time.