2009 Barthod: Chambolle at Its Purest

Posted by Ian McFadden

Chambolle's Unyielding Purity
2009 Ghislaine Barthod
Les Cras, Les Véroilles, Les Châtelots,
Les Charmes and Les Baudes

"If classically styled ultra pure and understated Chambolle floats your burgundy boat, then the Barthod-Noëllat wines should be on your very short list along with the likes of Roumier, Mugnier and de Vogüé as they really are that good." -Burghound

These are big words from Burghound... They also get to the heart of the matter.

Barthod ranked with Roumier, Mugnier and Vogüé? Yup. Yet for those who know Barthod's wines, the words aren't out of place. Her wines are "that good."

Bathod's wine are in a word: bulletproof.

These are wines that long-time Burgundy fans buy every vintage, without hesitation. Barthod just doesn't miss, and her Chambolles show a shimmering clarity and heartbreakingly silky elegance that are pretty much archetypical examples of the region.

Her 2009 collection is a fascinating rendition of the great vintage. 2009 was a riper vintage, but in Barthod's hands it's a vintage with elegance, tension and mineral purity. (Please see below for Burghound's tasting notes.)

What's astonishing isn't that Barthod is included on a list of the Chambolle's greats, but that Barthod is able to achieve this status without having a single vine planted in Grand Cru vineyards.

What Barthod does have is an amazing collection of 1er Cru sites that could serve as an advanced study of Chambolle's terroir. Circling the Grand Cru Bonnes Mares are the firm, elegant and hauntingly complicated wines of Les Cras and Les Véroilles and the brash more muscular and spicier Baudes. More towards the center of Chambolle, Les Châtelots shows Chambolle at its most fragrant and delicate, while Les Charmes offers incredible breeding and concentration.

Sadly, as is often the case with Burgundy, Barthod's holdings are tiny. If Barthod is still somewhat under-the-radar, it can be explained that there is simply not enough wine to get the word out. Her largest 1er cru holding is around .85 hectares, and many are as small as a quarter of a hectare!

These are wines we receive in paltry case quantities. Give us your ideal order, and we will allocate as fairly as possible.

Please be patient with us - you may not here back from us until Monday!

To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director Fine and Rare Wines
Crush Wine & Spirits

2009 Ghislaine Barthod

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots

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Burghound: "Interestingly, this is a bit more elegant than the Combottes with a very floral nose of rose petal, red berry fruit, earth and wet stone that precedes the smooth middle weight flavors that possess lovely detail and ample underlying tension on the firm finish."

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes

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Burghound: "An ultra elegant, airy and delicate red berry fruit nose leads to seductively textured middle weight flavors that display moderate amounts of minerality on the pure, long and decidedly firm finish. Like the Fuées, this is a wine of harmony and fine balance."

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras

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Burghound: "This is also exceptionally fresh and bright with relatively deeply pitched aromas of primarily red and blue pinot fruit that are in keeping with the rich and intensely mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent depth of material on the firm, long and gorgeously balanced finish. This is terrific juice though note that patience is part of the price of entry. A knockout."

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Veroilles

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Burghound: "Like the '09 Fuées this is exceptionally fresh for the vintage and displays cool and especially pure high-toned red pinot fruit, dried rose petals and subtle stone hints. The very rich and voluminous soil-inflected flavors finish with a linear, intense and very firm backend. This should be lovely in time though at present, it is austere as this is a very serious effort, particularly for the vintage."

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