"Knockout Chablis"
2009 Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
THIS VINTAGE IS NOT TO BE DENIED CHEZ DAUVISSAT
Dauvissat's 2009s are unbelievably, almost inexplicably good.
One of the more entertaining moments interviewing Raj Vaidya (Wine Director at Restaurant Daniel in NYC) about 2008 and 2009 Burgundy was him stating, one after the other, that 2009 in Burgundy is really a red wine vintage and then (apropos of nothing) "Dauvissat killed it in 2009 - they are beautiful, really beautiful wines."
To which I respond, "How is that?"
To which he responds, "I have no idea."
Fair enough - some things are just not easy to explain.
I should say that the greatness of Dauvissat's 2009s, as inexplicable as it may be, has been confirmed by a number of reliable, in-the-know types including, well, us.
We opened one at the store this week, not exactly doubting the rumors but... well. Always looking for an excuse to open some wine.
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This is an extraordinary bottle of wine in 2009, and we're ones who normally look to Forest for value a bit more than for quality. Just not true this year.
Dauvissat's Forest, ever the overlooked 1er Cru is sizzling in 2009. This is extraordinarily good. Stephen freaked out; Joe called it "the greatest Clos des Briords ever made" (a reference which is a bit too obscure to explain, but if you get it, you get it).
The wine is pure, pure, pure, it is mineral with a invigorating ocean breeze, a freshening green-herbal edge (thus the Muscadet reference) - awesome dimension and depth. In fact, the ripeness of the vintage, which in some cases can be downright flamboyant, is here really only noticeable as a facet of dimension, of texture and density.
However it came together, be it black magic, voodoo or simply strict selections and thoughtful winemaking, Dauvissat's 2009s are not to be overlooked and the Forest is one of the best values in the 2009 stable.
Perhaps none of this should be all that shocking, as year in and year out Vincent Dauvissat crafts what are among the greatest wines in the entire region. Along with Raveneau, he’s widely considered to represent the pinnacle of Chablis.
Collectors of Chablis should plan on going as deep as possible (time for that cellar renovation?) - customers who have endured our untiring promotions for this region's greatest wines, without succumbing, should with this bottle, succumb.Â
Try just one. Experience what the greatest of Chablis can achieve.
Even Vincent Dauvissat himself, who is always notably humble and candid with his thoughts on his wines and the vintages, told Allen Meadows that although the year was quite hot and the wines definitely have considerable richness, “I believe that they will age much better than many people seem to be predicting at present."
The pricing is ludicrous, or at the very least, very, very, very good - special 6-pack pricing for those going long.
Give us you're maximum order and we'll do our best. To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Special Email Bottle Price: $49.95
Compare at up to $70 and beyond
Special Email 6-Pack Price: $287.70 ($47.95 / btl)
Tanzer: "Knockout Chablis aromas of steely minerality, crushed stone, lemon, white flowers, fresh green vegetables and white pepper. Wonderfully rich and generous on the palate, the sweetest yet of these 2009s and boasting the roundness of the vintage's best examples. The minerality returns on the back end, which finishes with notes of silex, warm stones and licorice. Superb premier cru in the making."
Burghound: "A notably more complex nose offers up more classic Chablis aromas that include oyster shell, tidal pool and white flower aromas cut with just a hint of citrus that can also be found on the rich, generous, concentrated and quite powerful medium plus weight flavors that evidence noticeable salinity on the mouth coating and impressively persistent finish. Good stuff here and worth your interest."
2009 Dauvissat arrives fall 2011
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