Beyond the Burgundy Mainstream
2009 Philippe Pacalet Village, 1er and Grand Crus
Pommard, Gevrey, Gevrey 1er, Chambolle 1er and
Grand Crus Echézeaux, Charmes and Ruchottes
Nothing that is not essential.
That seems to be the philosophy of Philippe Pacalet.
His Burgundies are unapologetically transparent, lithe, ethereal, poised. While they can have substance (and in the ripe 2009 vintage they most definitely will), they nearly always feel delicate, etched, energetic. They are lacy wines, seemingly carved out of minerals mixed with satin and flowers.
For those of you who have not tried the Burgundies of Philippe Pacalet, comparisons are not easy. They definitely share some of the delicacy, the jewel-box sparkle of the reds of Drouhin. The bigger wines like the Gevreys and Pommards can have a fine texture and mineral spine not unlike the reds of Bachelet, Mugneret-Gibourg or Lafarge.
 |
Certainly fans of any of the producers above are strongly encouraged to try a bottle. While Philippe Pacalet remains well outside of the Burgundy mainstream, he has developed a strong, strong following.
Therefore this offer goes out only to those of you who have supported our Burgundy program in the past. Given the enthusiasm for 2009, we don't expect these to be available for very long.
Pacalet does not own his own vineyards; instead he is one of a new type of negociant popping up around the Côte d'Or (and other places where land is prohibitively expensive), a "mini-negociant" who seeks out parcels of vines that are old, that are well cared for (when it's possible, he employs organic methods) and that have the older clones he is looking for.
It is a collection of parcels that is carefully curated, from Gevrey to Pommard and beyond, including miniscule holdings in Charmes, Ruchottes and a new offering Echézeaux. (Note that because of the limited quantities, priority will be given to balanced orders.)
The Gevreys are the foundation of Pacalet's bottlings. While they are without a doubt "Gevrey," with all the topsoil and mineral that implies, in our experience they are lighter and less muscular than most Gevreys. These are old-school wines that rely more on finesse than power. They are exceedingly nuanced wines, deserving of big, big Burgundy glasses with plenty of room for them to stretch out.
All the wines are worth experiencing, and all of them benefit - perhaps even more than most Burgundies - from a rigorous decant and aeration. They are perfumed and subtle and profoundly evocative of their terroirs... but they need an attentive audience.
If the expectations surrounding 2009 Burgundy play out even in part, these wines should be simply spectacular. Please give us your maximum order, and we'll do our best to allocate fairly. Again, preference will be given to balanced orders.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
No compare at pricing yet available
Quantities are extremely limited! Click here for website listing.