2011 Dönnhoff: Lift and Clarity
PART II: Grand Cru Dry Rieslings
Special "Futures" Pricing
"...in my whole career, I have never seen such beautiful grapes as those in 2011."
As we wrote on Saturday, in the email featuring Dönnhoff's sweet wines, 2011 really is the perfect vintage at the perfect time. It is juicy and charming, with a lithe but very present acidity that keeps the fruit tones bright and the feel of the wines light.
I was blown away by the collection at Dönnhoff this year - the dry wines no less than the sweet.
In fact, the two strongest features of the 2011 collection are very well suited to dry Riesling: lift and clarity. I don't remember ever tasting a vintage at Dönnhoff that showcased such brilliant clarity. The dry wines, as with the sweets, are more agile, more energetic, more needle-fine than any vintage at Dönnhoff I can remember.
John Gilman makes the comparison to the legendary 2001s, which strikes me as plausible enough, though I didn't taste that collection at such a young age so I'll have to trust him!
Gilman writes: "While the Dönnhoff estate has produced excellent wines in the last several vintages, I am not sure that they can match the consistent brilliance of this collection of 2011ers, which left me as ecstatic as I was a decade ago tasting through the young 2001ers at this estate."
Today we feature Dönnhoff's trio of Grand Cru dry Rieslings (the "Grosses Gewächs") as well as a new vineyard for Dönnhoff: the Höllenpfad. The Höllenpfad is one of those great sites long since forgotten... and likely, since Dönnhoff is now working it, destined again for greatness.
And quantities, well... quantities are good in 2011 so if you're inclined to go deep, give us your maximum order and there's some chance we'll say yes. You never know.
If you're interested in magnums of any of the wines below, do let us know.
To order, please email us at email@example.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Crush Wine & Spirits
Höllenpfad Trocken - NEW!
John Gilman: "And the new wine in the portfolio? The 2011 Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken is more overtly fruity than the laser beam of minerality that is the Kahlenberg, but it is right there in terms of quality and complexity. The superb nose offers up scents of pink grapefruit, tart orange, salty soil tones, petrol, wild yeasts, orange zests, just a hint of fresh pineapple and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and racy, with excellent mid-palate depth, snappy acids and outstanding length and grip on the very soil-driven finish. A lovely, lovely wine."
Normal retail $37.95
"Felsentürmchen" Grosses Gewächs
John Gilman: "The Türmchen Grosses Gewächs of course cannot have the name of this section of the vineyard on the label, so there is a drawing of the tower instead. The 2011 version is going to be 13 a stunning wine, as it soars from the glass in a blaze of orange zest, white cherries, wild yeasts, pink grapefruit, petrol, brilliantly complex minerality and a hint of Chablisienne-like straw in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, racy and rock solid at the core, with snappy, ripe acids, superb focus and balance and stunning length and grip. Just a beautiful bottle. 2017-2040."
Normal retail $62.95
Dellchen Grosses Gewächs
John Gilman: "The 2011 Dellchen Grosses Gewächs is simply the greatest young dry wine I have ever tasted from this vineyard! The inherent elegance of the vintage has really worked its magic with this great Dellchen and this wine will be a must addition to any Dönnhoff lovers’ cellar! The utterly refined and brilliant nose offers up an intense blend of grapefruit, tart orange, petrol, a touch of lilacs, wild yeasts, crystalline slate tones and citrus peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full bodied and extremely elegant and racy for a young Dellchen, with a rock solid core of fruit, bright acids and stunning lift on the laser-like, endless and very snappy finish. A hauntingly beautiful wine in 2011! 2018-2045."
Normal retail $65.95
Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs
John Gilman: "Not to be outdone by the Dellchen, the 2011 Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs is also profound! The deep and completely kaleidoscopic nose soars from the glass in a magical blend of white cherries, pink grapefruit, crystalline minerality, citrus peel, lemongrass and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and Porsche-like in the passing lane, with stunning mid-palate depth, ripe, racy acids, brilliant focus and grip and a very, very pure and very long and elegant finish. A seamless and utterly stunning young wine! 2020-2050."
Normal retail $68.95
2011 Dönnhoffs arrive in the fall
NET | No further discount