2011 Keller: Hubacker, Abtserde, Morstein including magnums...

Posted by Joe Salamone

Power - Mineral - Finesse
Hubacker - Morstein - Abtserde
The Holy Trinity of Keller Grand Crus

Today the top dogs of Keller's formidable arsenal come out for a rare appearance - but please note quantities are very, very limited.

We figured we'd put this important fact right up top - you'll note there are absolutely NO listings anywhere in the U.S. for either Morstein or Abtserde. These are among the rarest and most sought after German Rieslings in the world.

If you are interested, please let us know ASAP! We'll take all orders and allocate as best we can. Please understand you may not hear back from us until Monday, it being a weekend and all.

There are no grander, more statuesque dry Rieslings than those fashioned by Klaus Peter Keller. They are simultaneously glossy, pristine and pure yet also almost painfully mineral, extraordinarily finessed, linear and elegant.

Keller's 2011s, as noted in the absolutely ecstatic reviews below by John Gilman, are phenomenal. While all too many German winemakers continue to function under a "ripeness is all" paradigm, Keller has been consistently dialing it back, consistently fine-tuning his approach both in the vineyard and in the cellar. What emerges in 2011 is a collection of astounding finesse and transparency. These are not to be missed.

There is absolutely no doubt these wines are among the greatest white wines in the world, bar none. While they are not inexpensive, when compared with even the top Grand Crus (and in many cases, 1er Crus!) of Burgundy, Keller's top GGs remain steals.

Of course, finding them is normally the real challenge...

As for the wines on offer today, there are great differences among them.

The Hubacker is the most masculine of the collection; in 2011 it is a hammer of a wine though I feel like 2010 was a real turning point for this bottle. Keller has managed to give the wine more definition without losing the natural power and depth it has. In 2011, this will have the bones to go a long, long time.

Morstein is perhaps the purest, most mineral expression of Riesling in limestone.This is a mind-boggling bottle in vintage 2011 and one of the rarest bottling in the Keller stable (aside from, of course, G-Max).

Abtserde is the pinnacle - it is a wine with something of the mineral of Morstein, something of the power of Hubacker, yet with more finesse, ungodly length. It is a triumph in 2011 - absolutely astounding.

You'll note some magnums available as well - obviously these will be allocated to balanced orders first.

To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2011 Keller

Riesling Hubacker GG
Special Email Bottle Price: $69.95
Special Email Magnum Price: $159.95
Compare at $75-$80
John Gilman, View from the Cellar: "The 2011 Hubacker Grosses Gewächs, with its predominantly red soils, is quite different in profile from the chalky Kirchspiel, but it too is absolutely outstanding. The wine offers up a deep, intense and complex nose of pink grapefruit, orange peel, petrol, wet stone, wild yeasts and a topnote of fresh rosemary. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, transparent and rapierlike on the attack, with a rock solid core, brisk, ripe acids, stunning focus and grip and a very, very long, precise and stony finish. This is the most masculine of the Keller Grosses Gewächs bottlings in 2011, and it will be stunning with some bottle age."

Riesling Morstein GG
Special Email Bottle Price: $109.95
Special Email MAGNUM Price: $249.95
No compare at pricing available
John Gilman, View from the Cellar: "There is a little bit more Morstein in the Keller cellars this year, as Klaus-Peter has bought another small parcel in the vineyard that is planted with sixty year-old vines. Perhaps it is just the quality of the vintage in general this year at Weingut Keller, or perhaps this addition of more old vines has taken this wine’s quality up just a small notch, but whatever the reason, this 2011 Morstein is a monumental wine in the making. The utterly brilliant nose offers up a very mineral blend of orange zest, pink grapefruit, kaleidoscopic minerality, a touch of lemongrass, tart orange, petrol and a very striking topnote of lime blossoms. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and laser-like, with a stunning core of fruit, great focus and cut, ripe, snappy acidity and simply stunning length and grip on the nascently complex finish. This is a Morstein for the ages!"

Riesling Abtserde GG
Special Email Bottle Price: $109.95
Special Email MAGNUM Price: $249.95
No compare at pricing available
John Gilman, View from the Cellar: "After the magnificent quality of the 2011 Morstein, I did not expect the Abtserde to hit the same exalted level, but it is every bit as complex and pure on both the nose and palate and even a touch longer on the finish! This is a brilliant wine in every respect, delivering a great bouquet of tangerine, petrol, blood orange, a very discreet touch of wild yeasts, lemongrass, kaleidoscopic, chalky minerality and a beautiful topnote of spring flowers with a bit of air. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and dancing, with a stunning core of fruit, gem-like precision to its focus, snappy, ripe acids and great balance and grip on the endless finish. An utterly profound young wine."