Tiny Yields, Outrageous Intensity and Purity
2012 Chevillon Nuits-St-George
1er Cru Les Vaucrains
"There is outstanding size, weight and punch" -Burghound
Chevillon doesn't miss. He may well be the most consistent producer of Red Burgundy that I know. However in vintages like 2012, amazing things happen at Chevillon.
I should just mention from the start that, like many producers, Chevillon saw painfully small yields in 2012. Yields were down 40-50%. I'm limiting the scope of this to a very small circle of Burgundy supporters, but I'd bet this parcel will be gone by day's end.
The 1er Cru Vaucrains is one of the gems in the Chevillon stable. The eighty year old vines produce powerful, incredibly deep, mineral and sauvage wines. The way Vaucrains ages is no joke. Vaucrains can reach its twentieth birthday without breaking a sweat.
This is especially true of the 2012 Vaucrains. It's really amazing how it manages to balance an almost crushing level of concentration with driving mineral freshness. Burghound calls attention to "the strikingly long and complex finish." Indeed, a jam-packed mid-palate leads to a ridiculous finale awash in earth, minerals, dark red fruits and a gentle, intriguing wildness.
As quoted by Burghound, Bertrand Chevillon said, "you really couldn't ask for cleaner fruit as there was literally zero rot." This really shows in the Vaucrains. There's a clarity and elegance to it that's absolutely lovely.
There are few producers who have earned my respect over the years the way Chevillon has. The wines are bulletproof in terms of how they age and their consistency. They are also some of the most honest, terroir specific wines I know.
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Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits