Kirchspiel GG's Wild Sibling
2012 Keller Riesling Kirchspiel "RR"
Under-The-Radar Keller
Keller's Kirchspiel "RR" is an outlier in the line-up: a tiny .33 ha island of red soil amidst a sea of yellow limestone.
It has quickly become one of our favorite under-the-radar Keller bottlings.
The "RR" is most often fermented spontaneously and allowed to find its own balance, thus it can have a bit more residual sugar than the GG and displays a profound push and pull between acidity and sweetness.
Keller's entire 2012 collection is just incredible. We have to agree with John Gilman when he writes, "It is hard to imagine anyone in Germany having realized more success in this vintage than Weingut Keller."
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The quantities available are very small and saying this may cause us a headache, but 2012 is a really stunning example of Keller's Kirchspiel "RR." It's the finest and clearest one we've tasted.
As mentioned earlier, "RR" is allowed to ferment until it naturally stops. In 2012, there's about 12-13 grams of residual sugar. The little bit of residual sugar adds a unique textural element, a sappy touch that is attenuated and pulled into something very fine by the acidity. This wine flaunts a very natural, very spot-on balance! The overall impression is of a dry tasting wine.
Riesling is a most sensitive grape variety and small differences in soil type account for very big differences in expression. This Kirchspiel, from red soil, shows a more brooding, darker mineral expression that is pungent, with wet stones and moist earth, even tobacco and clay. The fruit matches the mineral profile, ripe stone fruit with notes of petrol and mint.
"RR" is definitely the wilder sibling of the Kirchspiel GG. And that's part of the fascination. It shows a broad complexity as it grips the palate and continues on to a long, precise and unrelenting finish.
The balance and the acid backbone that the 2012 "RR" possesses ensures that it will age very well. We created 4-packs for this reason. This is a beautiful example of one of Keller's most intriguing and unique bottles.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salmone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits