2014 Willi Schaefer
Graacher Himmelreich & Domprobst Kabinett
I've been sitting on this parcel of Willi Schaefer's 2014 Kabinetts for a while.
They are hard wines to part with.
Schaefer produced a beautiful range of 2014s, but that range is very limited in terms of availability. With only 4ha and a huge following, Schaefer is never in good supply, but 2014 is ugly.
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The Schaefers did ruthless selections through the vineyards. A large amount of wine went into estate bottlings, the small amount of Domprobst Spätlese produced went to auction and there was no Auslesen.
The 2014 Kabinetts are gorgeous. They deliver clarity, snap and classic proportions along with a gripping textural presence. Few (if any) Rieslings reach the level of detail, grace and fineness that Schaefer's wines do. The 2014 Kabinetts stand as a textbook example of this.
The 2014 Himmelreich Kabinett has the site's typical cut and salty minerality, but offers more gravitas and weight than is usually found in the wine. It's a lovely combination of punch and delicacy. The Domprobst is a nicely lithe and high-toned version of the wine. Domprobst's classic ginger-y spice mingles with floral notes and a lively undercurrent of citrus. The mid-palate offers complex layers and the finish pops with mouthwatering freshness and finesse.
Over the years, I've only become more and more impressed by just how profound Schaefer's wines are. I can't tell you how many times Schaefers have shared the table with German heavy hitters, like Egon Müller and JJ Prüm, and the Schaefer wines stole everyone's attention.
I have a particular fondness for Schaefer's Kabinetts, for how captivatingly elegant and weightless they become with a decade or more of age. Every time I look at my personal cellar I find myself wishing I had more Schaefer Kabinett.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
2014 Willi Schaefer