Even before the wines were made available this fall, people were talking about Lauer's 2020 GGs.
There is a very fine line to thread with Grosses Gewächs, Germany's "Grand Cru" dry wines, especially if you're trying to be faithful to the singular delicacy of the Saar. The wines do need the intensity and volume turned up, but simply being bigger and richer doesn't quite capture the best that Germany has to offer.
In the vintage 2020, Florian Lauer unquestionably threaded the needle with amazing skill. The GGs strike an incredible harmony. They boast a combination of weightlessness and lithe paired with a stunning density and focus that is simply undeniable.
 |
There was so much talk of these wines before their release in September, followed by an immediate coronation of the wines by Mosel Fine Wines.
Feils is a top site for Lauer and a unique site for the Saar, hugging the river and benefitting from the warm microclimate, complex slate, and alluvial soil. The 2020 edition is the finest Lauer has rendered yet it also has serious structure, grip, and definition.
The Kupp is Lauer’s most famous vineyard and one of the great sites of the Saar. Sourced from the best parcels in the vineyard, Lauer's Kupp is always the most complete of the GGs. The 2020 is simply superb, with supreme elegance, balance, and persistence.
As with the past few vintages; there's very little point in fanning the fire. These are among the most talked about dry wines of the Saar. As always, Lauer's GGs are in short supply. We suggest that you get your orders in quickly.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
2020 Feils Grosses Gewächs
Special Bottle Price: $57.95
Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2020er Feils N°13 GG, as it is referred to on the central part of the label, comes from this south-south-east facing Lieu-dit overseeing the Saar. It offers a beautifully refreshing and smoky nose of minty herbs, cassis leaf, pear, stone fruits, black pepper, grapefruit, raspberry, bergamot, and a hint of beeswax. The wine proves full of presence and intensity on the palate. Some fruity flavors of pear and peach add a sense of smoothness to the experience. The finish has more lightness, yet the whole thing remains on the riper side. It may however develop finesse and warrant an even higher score with time."
2020 Kupp Grosses Gewächs
Special Bottle Price: $57.95
Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2020er Kupp N°18 GG, as it is referred to on the central part of the label, comes from the central part of the original Kupp hill. It proves rather reserved at first and only reveals some faint scents of smoke, roasted spices, cardamom, anise, fresh water, grapefruit, and greengage. The wine already shows some great finesse, presence, and intensity (from dry extract) on the palate and leaves a beautifully sharp, precise, and energetic feel of salt and spices in the very long and bone-dry finish. The aftertaste is all about smoke, herbs, and lime. This will need a couple of years to reveal all its complexity."