These are Lauer's two greatest and rarest Kabinetts. They epitomize the singular brilliance of the Saar.
Lauer's Kabinetts can be absolutely magical. In the Saar, Egon Müller is the only other producer that is producing Kabinetts at this rarefied level.
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The Egon Müller comparison is even more apt for Lauer's Schonfels and Lambertskirch because they all show one profound similarity: a laser-beam focus, a stony austerity, and a rigid structure. This is the hallowed calling card of the Saar, and it is, ever more, a rarity in this warming world.
Of Lauer's two Kabinetts, the Lambertskirch is more perfumed and floral. Lambertskirch is an ancient site, the reputation of which inspired Florian Lauer to clear and replant the site in 2009, using selection massale cuttings from around the Saar. The vineyard is the size of a small garden and the wine's explosive exuberance has made it one of Lauer's cultiest bottlings.
Schonfels is denser and more structured. The vineyard contains some of the few ungrafted vines left in the Saar, most of them over 100 years old. This is hallowed terroir. (See Mosel Fine Wines' notes below for more on Lauer's two single-vineyard Grand Cru Kabinetts.)
If misunderstood, the top bottlings of vintage 2023 increase in stature with each passing week. These top wines are beginning to show their true character. A ripeness, yes, but a ripeness matched to an almost provocative acidity, a forceful energy and structure.
If this is a vintage to be very selective about, and it is, these are both among the vintages' best and simply rare trophies of the Saar.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
