A profound, multi-dimensional wine - 1998 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux

Posted by Ian McFadden

"A profound, multi-dimensional wine"
1998 Comte Armand Pommard
1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux

Comte Armand's Clos des Epeneaux is one of the great wines of the Côte de Beaune.

Catching Comte Armand's Clos des Epeneaux in maturity is one of the extraordinary experiences that Burgundy has to offer. We've tasted profound bottles from the 70s.

The Clos des Epeneaux is a highlight of the 1998 vintage. When Clive Coates tasted a wide range of 1998s in 2008, he was deeply impressed, calling it "a profound, multi-dimensional wine. Both a true Pommard and very elegant."

1998 was not immediately a great vintage. At first, the wines were a little disjointed, with loose knit dark fruits, hard edged tannins and acidities that stuck out. The best wines of the vintage, like the Clos des Epeneaux, have harmonized and blossomed beautifully.

Pommard doesn't have any Grand Crus, but sites like Rugiens and especially Epenots, can deliver similar levels of complexity. Clos des Epeneaux is a walled monopole of Comte Armand that produces what's likely the finest example of the 1er Cru Epenots.

The 1998 Clos des Epeneaux shows the balance that the vintage has found over time. There's a deep and dark suavely textured fruit profile that's complicated by spice and mineral notes. There's a bright acidity that provides nice lift and finesse to the wine.

Pommard, like Nuits St. Georges and Gevrey, produces dense, fiercely muscular wines. For us, what makes Clos des Epeneaux special isn't just its muscle, but how it combines with elegance and a silken texture. The 1998 is a great example of a finessed vintage for this wine.

I love finding things like this. 1998 Clos des Epeneaux isn't the greatest example of the wine, but it's a fascinating expression of the site, that's drinking well and offers tons of value. We have a small amount of this to offer. Please give us your ideal order and we'll try our best.

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

1998 Comte Armand Pommard Epeneaux