What do Hofgut Falkenstein, Willi Schaefer, Julian Haart, and Vollenweider all have in common?
These four growers have the highest scoring Kabinetts of the 2023 vintage, according to the scholars at Mosel Fine Wines.
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Still, even in this rarefied context, Mosel Fine Wines writes, "...a special mention goes to the 2023 Goldgrube Kabinett Wurzelecht, a truly magnificent and playful wine and a strong contender for the Kabinett of the vintage."
Moritz Hoffmann's 2023 collection at Vollenweider is nothing short of a revelation.
Today we offer a tiny parcel of Vollenweider's two Goldgrube Kabinetts, the "regular" old-vine Kabinett and the first-ever bottling sourced exclusively from a tiny parcel of ungrafted vines within the Goldgrube—"wurzelecht" translates to "ungrafted" in German.
Vollenweider has long been considered one of the great "insider" estates of the Mosel. Among the producers who sing the estate's praises is Julian Haart. For years, Haart has claimed Vollenweider is one of the Mosel's best.
In recent vintages, Mortiz Hoffmann has brought even more focus and tension to the wines. The importance of the wines is becoming blatantly obvious.
Both Kabinetts are simply explosive, slim, and sleek characters that weave together intensity and focus in a most beguiling way. Forget everything you think you know about 2023; these are Kabinetts that may enter the pantheon of Kabinetts from 2021, 2017 or 2012.
Moritz himself, one of the most soft-spoken winemakers in the Mosel, says at Vollenweider, "2023, I think, is in the top three [vintages] in the last ten years."
We expect demand to be high, and quantities are limited. We'll leave it here. We've included the full Mosel Fine Wines write-ups below, but we'd suggest, if you do open these side-by-side in the near future, follow them for a few days. The difference becomes more and more apparent with time.
Both wines have huge futures ahead of them.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
