"A superb 2005" - Peter Liem
2005 Pierre Peters Cuvée Spéciale
Les Chétillons Blanc de Blancs
Le Mesnil is holy ground for Chardonnay, and Chétillons is one of the choicest parcels in all of Mesnil.
Which is to say that we're dealing with some of the best land in all of Champagne.
Chétillons is an extremely chalky, well-exposed site that takes Mesnil's piercing acidity and minerality and gives it an extra-dimension and an additional layer of gravitas. Not that Mesnil needs any more of it, but regardless here it is.
Simply put: This is some of the most beautiful Chardonnay in the world.
Of course, the site is only half the story. As great as Chétillons is, it has more than a worthy interpreter in Pierre Peters. With perhaps the exception of Jacques Selosse, Pierre Peters is the Champagne that industry people talk about the most and in the most reverential terms.
Pierre Peters has long enjoyed the status as the top grower-producer in all of Mesnil and one of the top growers in all of Champagne. These are some of the most finely rendered versions of Chardonnay anywhere.
And out of their formidable line-up, Chétillons is their top wine. It comes from vines ranging from 35 to 68 years old, which is quite old by Champagne standards.
What makes Chétillons so stunning is how it takes Mesnil's chalky steeliness and energy and adds a layer of ripe citrus and more palate presence. The angles remain deeply and finely etched, but edges are rounded and less severe.
As with all Mesnil, Chétillons demands some time in the cellar to show its full glory. The 2005 vintage helps the less patient of us, because the ripeness of the vintage allows it to reach maturity earlier than the norm - in say 10 years after the vintage. It's drinking just fine now, but just wait to see what happens in a few more years.
2005 is a ripe vintage and Peters was able to exploit the vintage character for all it's worth. As Peter Liem writes, "the ripeness of a vintage like 2005 might not always seem to be the best combination. In fact, this handles the vintage superbly, showing an elevated richness yet emphasizing the sophisticated complexity and mineral expression of the site."
Pierre Peters 05 Chétillons offers a chance to witness one of Champagne's best growers working in one of the greatest sites for Chardonnay. The results are gorgeous: the tension, the ruthless minerality, the elegance are just impressive and singular.
As is almost always the case with wines this special, there's just not much to go around. We're only offering this to people who've supported our Champagne program. Still, I wouldn't be surprised if we had to allocate at the end of the day.
To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Peter Liem: "The vineyard of Les Chêtillons always produces a naturally rich wine, and the ripeness of a vintage like 2005 might not always seem to be the best combination. In fact, this handles the vintage superbly, showing an elevated richness yet emphasizing the sophisticated complexity and mineral expression of the site. Part of this is because the dosage of 4 g/l is perfectly judged, elongating the floral and citrus aromas and imparting a feeling of ripe fruit rather than sugar: this bottle was only disgorged one month ago, yet it already appears harmonious and expressive, such is its balance. It's a superb 2005, and while one might quibble with the opulent style of the vintage, there's no denying this wines' quality."