"Absolutely seamless in its
sense of balance and filigree."
2013 Keller Riesling Von der Fels Trocken
Keller's Von der Fels is baby Grosses Gewächs. Year after year, it's the best value in elite dry Riesling we know.
At a fraction of the cost of Keller's game changing GGs, Von der Fels delivers an enormous amount of intensity, class and edged minerality. It is never far behind Keller's epic and sought after Grand Crus.
Keller's Von der Fels has quietly become an essential for savvy Riesling buyers. They stash large quantities in their cellars.
It seems that this overachieving bottle improves with each vintage. The 2013 is no exception. Yields for the 2013 were way, way down. In terms of availability, this is bad news. But as far as the wines goes, this is very good news.
The low yields produced a Von der Fels of beautifully sleek mineral concentration and crazy, precise length. The racy 2013 acidity finds its perfect complement in the extra stuffing from the low yields.
John Gilman just comes out and pronounces it: "Outstanding wine and a great bargain!" That sums it up nicely.
Since Klaus-Peter Keller has taken the reins, this estate has become one of the most famous in Germany and is especially revered for their dry Rieslings. Jancis Robinson penned in the Financial Times: "[Keller's] wines are the German Montrachets." He is easily one of the most fascinating and talented winemakers we know. To get a sense of this, Levi Dalton's I'll Drink to That interview with Keller is very much worth listening to.
For us, it's the Von der Fels that establishes just how skilled Keller is as a winemaker. The top wines, like Abtserde and G-Max are mind bogglingly good, for sure. However, making a wine at Von der Fels' level for the price is a supreme achievement.
To order, reply to firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Crush Wine & Spirits