"A Classic and Achingly Beautiful Volnay"
2005 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Mitans
Intensity, Finesse, Agility - Lowest Price in the Nation
Any time a Lafarge offer comes up, it's personal.
Lafarge is one of our favorite producers; there is just something about the delineation, the fine-ness, the purity, the understated grace of these wines.
Allen Meadows is not one of those reviewers prone to phrases like, "...achingly beautiful..." Nor are we particularly easy when it comes to Burgundy - after all, we take this region very, very seriously. But this is one of those 2005 treasures; classic in its pure, concentrated red cherries and raspberries turned up a notch by the amplitude of the vintage. Meadows' review, below, is worth reading.
The grapes from the Mitans site used to go into Lafarge's general Volnay 1er Cru, but in 2004 Michel and Frédéric bought another parcel of the site (it sits just east of the village in the band of Premier Crus that run across the commune), and there's now enough high-quality juice from this site to make its own cuvée. Mitans, especially Lafarge's rendition, tends to be extremely linear, a subtle wine; Meadows says Mitans is "pure, lacy and solidly minerally."
In a perfect world, you'd allow this wine another five+ years of hibernation - if you do open it now give it a good decant. Yes, Volnay is fine and Lafarge is even finer, but this 2005 Mitans has structure.
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Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Burghound: This is also wonderfully elegant, pure and utterly harmonious aromatically with layered and mineral infused ripe red pinot fruit that dissolves seamlessly into supple, detailed, dusty, firm and driving flavors that are perfectly balanced and stunningly long on the linear finish. This is expressive yet cool and one is struck more by the sheer transparency than the depth though there is no lack of that either. A classic and achingly beautiful Volnay.