"Almost gem-like in its precision"
2012 Keller Abtserde Grosses Gewächs
There's no way around it: Keller's 2012s are stunning.
As is usually the case, Abtserde is at the top of the list.
This is as pure, as focused, as intense, as filigreed an expression of dry Riesling as exists.
Abtserde seems to consolidate the best attributes of Keller's Hubacher, Kirchspiel and Morstein and take them to a thunderingly complex conclusion. It has the power of Hubacher and the minerality of Morstein and Kirchspiel. From here, Abtserde brings more finesse and ungodly length.
In 2012, everything is delivered with a gorgeous purity and detail. Along with that outrageous purity, 2012 delivered plenty of concentration, intensity and palate-gripping depth. Essentially, we're looking at a dream brew.
The 2012 Abtserde is really just an astounding wine. John Gilman captures this well, "This is clearly one of the finest examples of dry Riesling I have ever had the pleasure to taste."
The Abtserde vineyard may prove to be Keller's top site. In the Middle Ages, this site was considered the finest vineyard in Keller's area of the Rheinhessen, known as the Hügelland. The wines from the vineyard were strictly reserved for the Bishop of nearby Worms.
The Kellers must have felt they were onto something with the Abtserde site. It was not only the first vineyard they purchased after much investigation, but they showed super-human patience in the negotiations. Consider that they bought their parcel way back in 1996 yet were forced to wait nearly ten years for the current lease to end in 2005 before they could produce a single bottle under their label.
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Crush Wine & Spirits
John Gilman: "There is a crystalline quality to the 2012 Keller Abtserde that makes the wine almost gem-like in its precision and sparkling complexity this year. The magical bouquet soars from the glass in a blaze of orange zest, pink grapefruit, petrol, crystalline, chalky minerality, citrus peel, esthery notes of bee pollen and lemongrass in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep,full-bodied, pure and brilliantly detailed, with a fine core, crisp, seamless acids, stunning focus and balance and a beautifully complex and flawless finish of glorious length and grip. This is clearly one of the finest examples of dry Riesling I have ever had the pleasure to taste, and I have drunk more than my fair share of Clos Ste. Hune over the years!"