"The Goldgrube 'Wurzelecht' will be among the finest made this year … as you might have guessed, we can only recommend readers to feast upon the beauties from this estate this year!" -Mosel Fine Wines, No. 76
Today, we present a cerebral and delicious side-by-side: Two wines from the same producer, same vineyard, and same vintage. The only difference is that one Kabinett is made from 100% ungrafted vines, and the other is made from a combination of ungrafted and grafted vines.
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More than this, however, we also offer what are unquestionably two of the greatest Kabinetts from a great Kabinett vintage.
None other than Klaus Peter Keller wrote the following in June of this year: “Vintage 2024 is an absolutely outstanding year for Kabinett. I think 2024 could be the great rival of the 2021 vintage…"
Moritz Hoffman has turned in, again, a collection that can only be described as revelatory. More than any estate in Germany's Mosel - with the exception of perhaps Julian Haart - Vollenweider's collection is the talk of the vintage.
Indeed, in the past two vintages, Mortiz Hoffmann has brought even more focus and tension to the wines of Vollenweider.
In 2024, Hoffmann was given the vintage in which to shape even finer, even more precise Kabinetts - recalling the top years of the 1990s and the early aughts, like 2004 and 2008.
Both of these 2024 Kabinetts are razor-sharp, incisive, forceful and muscular wines that whip across the palate leaving a trail of pulverized slate, flowers, screaming citrus, and salt.
They are thrilling masterpieces.
In youth, the two expressions are wildly similar; perhaps the "Wurzelecht" is a bit tauter. Yet the real thrill, and the hope of this offer, is that you will be able to grab a few of each of these and watch them develop over the next decade or two.
As with last year, we expect demand to be high, and the quantities are limited.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
In Stock - Limited Quantities
2024 Vollenweider Riesling Goldgrube Kabinett Wurzelecht750 ml
2024 Goldgrube Kabinett
Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2024er Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett is a fruity-styled wine made from fruit harvested on old vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard. This offers a superb nose made of lemon sorbet, pear, white flowers, whipped cream, and smoke. The wine proves superbly juicy and engaging feel on the light-footed but intense palate. The wine is packed with fruit in the long finish. This is a great Kabinett to enjoy on its primary fruit now, or in a decade, when mature."
2024 Goldgrube Kabinett "Wurzelecht" (Ungrafted)
Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2024 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label (and with a drawing of vine roots in gold, the reference to -Wurzelecht- is left for the back label), is a fruity-styled wine made from a selection of very old, un-grafted vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard. It offers a beautiful nose made of bitter grapefruit, herbs, smoke, whipped cream, and smoke. The wine proves superbly elegant, refined, and precise on the palate and leaves a hugely focused and persistent finish. What a stunner in the making!"