Under-the-Radar Roumier
2012 Roumier Morey-St.-Denis
1er Cru Clos de la Bussière
"Christophe Roumier's 2012 are among the highlights of the vintage." -Antonio Galloni
We've come to expect big things from Roumier. Even in that context, Roumier's 2012 are jaw-dropping.
Along with Rousseau and DRC, Roumier forms a holy trinity of elite Red Burgundy producers. Of course, that's another way of saying that finding Roumier can be an adventure. Offering the wines is something that we're seldom able to do.
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The 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is likely Roumier's most under-the-radar site. Once initiated, it's easy to get obsessed with Roumier's Bussière.
It's a wine whose life in the cellar is shocking. John Gilman captures Bussière well when he writes, it's "deep complex and very long-lived... and is very deserving of a place in any conscientiously-stocked Burgundy collection." A 1995 opened recently really drove home just how well this bottle ages.
The 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière sits in the southern section of Morey at the border of Chambolle and is a monopole. It lies below the Grand Cru Clos de Tart and has very stony soil.
Bussière has always been a powerful, slightly edgy wine. In recent vintages, I've been amazed by how much elegance this wine has developed. The 2012 represents an inflection point in this trend. The 2012 Bussière offers up such length, refined detail and crystal clear transparency. It's a really, really killer edition of a wine that I've always had a soft spot for. There's the deep earthy, smokey minerality with dark red fruits and floral notes.
Offering Roumier is a luxury. I wish I could offer the wines more often. They sum up what I love about Burgundy. While Bussière isn't inexpensive, its under-the-radar status makes it deliver an incredible amount of value amidst Roumier's line-up. It probably goes without saying that quantities are limited.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: "Graphite, pencil shavings, plums and mint are some of the many notes that take shape in the 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de La Bussière. A cool, reticent Burgundy, the 2012 impresses for its persistence, delineation and intensity. Although Christophe Roumier's wines are highly sought all over the world, the Clos de la Bussière remains the most under the radar wine in this range. I wouldn't open a bottle before its tenth birthday, as this is a wine that has always repaid cellaring. I expect that will be the case again within the 2012. This is a fabulous showing, Stylistically, the Clos de la Bussière is classic Morey in its pure power."