Among the top wines... - 2013 Weiser-Kunstler Ellergrub Kabinett

Posted by Joe Salamone

"Among the top wines produced anywhere in the Mosel..."
2013 Weiser-Künstler Ellergrub Kabinett

At this point, it seems almost trite to call Weiser-Künstler one of the top producers in the Mosel.

Since its founding in 2005, Weiser-Künstler's ascent has been swift.

Today, Weiser-Künstler is often mentioned in the same breath as Willi Schaefer. It's an apt comparison not only because, like Schaefer, Weiser-Künstler is tiny (they have just 3ha), but also because the wines of both producers have a pristine rigor and blazing slate-inflected energy.

The Mosel Fine Wine Review captures the feelings of many Riesling lovers when they write: "These are consistently among the top wines produced anywhere in the Mosel..."

2013 is another flat-out stunning vintage from Weiser-Künstler. Its profile is much different, but it's a very worthy follow up to the 2012s.

We love Weiser-Künstler's entire line-up from fruity to dry, but it's their Kabinett that we always drink the most of. It's so agile and delicate. And in 2013 they hit the mark with their Ellergrub Kabinett.

The 2013 Ellergrub Kabinett delivers beautiful feather weight finesse and yet simultaneously manages to be deeply complex. This is exactly how we like our Kabinetts. Given the quantities available, it's hard for me to justify going as deep on the 2013 as I'd like to, but I've bought as much as my conscience allows plus a couple more.

At the heart of Weiser-Künstler are impressive old vine holdings in great vineyards. Ellergrub is the headliner here. Many German fanatics would rate the under-the-radar Ellergrub as one of the best in the Middle Mosel. Weiser-Künstler's parcel in this steeply terraced, mostly blue slate, vineyard is home to hundred year old ungrafted vines

The combination of Weiser-Künstler's old vines and steep slate vineyards, their size and their sheer dedication helps to explain why their 2013s were so successful. In the Mosel, 2013 was a difficult vintage. There are some very good wines and some flops. A cool, rainy fall season kept ripeness moderate and brought botrytis, forcing growers to rush harvest. Being a small operation made a quick harvest much easier.

At its best (and W-K's Kabinett is a prime example) the vintage is electrifying. The wines have a thrilling cut and a piercing fineness and finesse.

The dark side of 2013 is that quantities are insanely low. It started with poor flowering and then sorting at harvest made things even more painful. When it comes to Weiser-Künstler, we're talking tiny, tiny quantities.

I've tried to keep the scope of the email fairly narrow. Still, I fear that this will sell out quickly.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits