2011 Weiser-Künstler Ellergrub
Insider Estate Shines in 2011
"These are consistently among the top wines produced anywhere in the Mosel..." -The Mosel Fine Wine Review
Since its founding in 2005, Weiser-Künstler's ascent has been assured and steady. But 2011 marks a break-out vintage for Weiser-Kunstler.
In 2011, they undeniably placed themselves among German's elite.
Out of their very strong 2011 line-up, it's likely that no wine makes the case for Weiser-Künstler's elite status as emphatically as their Ellergrub Spätlese Trocken.
To be honest, I've drunk an embarrassing amount of this wine. For me, no other wine in 2011 achieves the level of mineral-laden rigor and detail. The only collection that comes close is Willi Schaefer's.
Willi Schaefer is a good comparison, because, like Schaefer, Weiser-Künstler is tiny, just 3ha.
The estate's size contributes to the fact that Weiser-Künstler remains one of the most overlooked producers in the Mosel; an insider's estate that is turning out miniscule quantities of delicate, pristine, shimmering Rieslings. Driving up and down the Mosel, this is one of those estates you hear about from nearly every winemaker.
At the heart of Weiser-Künstler is impressive old vine holdings in great vineyards. Ellergrub is the headliner here. Many German fanatics would rate the under-the-radar Ellergrub as one of the best in the Middle Mosel. Weiser-Künstler's parcel in this steeply terraced, mostly blue slate, vineyard is home to hundred year old ungrafted vines.
The Ellergrub Spätlese Trocken shows the sappy concentration of old vines along with the depth of minerality that they bring. The thing that stands out is the complexity of the minerality. Think of layers of crushed rocks, sea spray, earth that's complemented by lime, Meyer lemon, herbs and stone fruit skin. The feeling of interwoven harmony and completeness is just lovely.
This is just life-affirming wine and shouldn't be missed by Riesling fanatics. It will be fascinating to watch it evolve as it deepens and grows more nuanced with time.
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Crush Wine & Spirits