"An absolute jewel of a wine"
2016 Nervi-Conterno Gattinara Molsino

Posted by Ian McFadden

Nervi-Conterno hit the bullseye in 2016.

Simply put, the 2016 is a breathtaking effort. It's one of the wines that alters what you think is possible from a region.

photo of bottle of bottle of Nervi Conterno Gattinara

The 2016 offers such soaring complexity and breeding that it demands a place on the world stage. It has the focus and intensity that Conterno delivers when he's at the top of his game.

This is an incredibly impressive display of the supreme elegance that the northern Piedmont is capable of. You get the brisk, silky signature of Gattinara with its beguiling weave of spice, game, dried rose petals, cherry and perfumed raspberry fruits, tar, leather, tobacco, and a fascinating thread of sun-scorched, rocky minerality that you get from its volcanic soils. 

Gattinara produces some of the most powerful, longest-lived Nebbiolos. Bottles can easily see their 30th birthdays—do not underestimate the top bottlings of Gattinara. Nervi has been one of our most consistent source of old Gattinara. There are plenty of brilliant old bottles out there.

Conterno is arguably the greatest producer in Piedmont. He is the first producer in Barolo or Barbaresco to look north. As you would guess, Conterno chose wisely. Nervi is the historic producer of Gattinara with really impressive vineyard holdings, including Molsino, some dating back to 1679.

Conterno has been involved in the estate since 2011, when Erling Astrup, a wine collector, and friend of his, purchased the winery and sought his counsel. In 2018, he bought the estate outright. I visited Nervi in 2019, and it was clear that Conterno is bringing the rigor and perfectionism of his Barolo estate to Nervi. 

In 2018, I named the 2013 Molsino my wine of the year. The wine blew me away. Even in this context, the 2016 shattered my expectations profoundly. This is a do not miss wine. 

To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits

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Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media: "Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers will find an old-school, classically austere Gattinara that needs 10-15 years to be at its best. The 2016 is an absolute jewel of a wine, but it should be purchased only by readers with either very good genes are a ton of optimism regarding their own longevity.