At The Top Of His Game:
1999 Chezeaux (Ponsot) Griottes-Chambertin

Posted by Ian McFadden

Whenever I can get my hands on Chezeaux's Griotte (made by Laurent Ponsot), I get really excited.

We're fond of introducing this wine as one of Burgundy's great secrets. There's pretty much no better way to sum it up.

What's in play is the French practice of "métayage," an exchange where someone works the land owned by someone else and gives the owner a percentage of the final product. In short, Ponsot makes the wine from Chezeaux's land, and in return he gets two-thirds of the production, which he bottles under his own label.

I've been sort of obsessed with the Griotte recently. Both the 2002 and the 1999 are showing brilliantly right now. We offered the 2002 a month ago and it sold out in a matter of hours.

Ponsot is one of Burgundy's elite, and his '99s show him at the top of his game. As always, there is a signature at Ponsot that sets them apart from everything in the Cote d'Or. The style combines extraordinarily textured depth with a heart-breaking finesse.

While Ponsot's Clos de la Roche offers incredible muscle and grandeur, we love Griotte for its striking perfume and nimble elegance. The '99 Griotte drives home just how beautiful and complex this bottling can be. There's such length, vibrant snap and dancing notes of cherry fruit, spice, flowers and earth.

At only 3 hectares, Griotte is one of the most elusive Grand Crus and the strong cast of growers (Fourrier, Ponsot, Drouhin, etc) only makes the Grand Cru rarer. Chezeaux's 99 Ponsot bottling of Griotte shows what the Grand Cru can deliver at its very best. I imagine these bottles will disappear.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden

Director, Fine & Rare Wine

Crush Wine & Spirits