Jochen Beurer has provided me with some of the most eye-opening and memorable Riesling I've tasted in years.
When I heard that his Grosses Gewächs had arrived, I couldn't wait to taste it. Beurer just started producing a GG and 2013 is the first vintage to make it to the U.S.
These are shocking Rieslings; the GG takes that awe-inspiring nature to the highest level. Beurer is located in Württemberg, a German wine region that we rarely see in this country. Instead of the Mosel's slate, this is limestone and sandstone territory. The GG is sourced from his best vineyard on Kieselsandstein, which features poor, red and chalky limestone.
My first Beurer left one of the most vivid impressions on my taste memory. They have a ridiculously complex minerality unlike anything I've tasted before. I can't tell you how many times I've tasted a Beurer, loved it, and found the wine haunting my thoughts hours, and sometimes even days later.
Beurer is all about an ultra-elegant, brilliant expression of minerality. It's sleek, kinetic and textured. The '13 GG really dramatizes all of these qualities. If you're hunting for effusive fruit, you'll find it only at the margins. But don't misunderstand -- this is not an austere wine. It is something lifted, with finesse and radiance.
Writing about Beurer is always humbling. There are such mysterious depths to the wine, but in the simplest sense Beurer always shocks and opens my eyes in wonder in a way that's impossible to put into words. The Grosses Gewächs is simply a beautiful wine. One that you should not miss.
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