No Longer a Secret
2009 Fèvre 1er Cru Vaulorent
The Chablis Value of the Vintage
Winemaker Didier Séguier calls the Vaulorent their "baby Grand Cru."
This isn't hyperbole; the fact is Vaulorent is tucked right against the Grand Cru Les Preuses (see map below). On the palate, the wine strikes a similarly impressive balance of power and delineation.
The Burghound cuts to the chase with a simple three-word sentence: "This is impressive."
This is essentially a Grand Cru in everything but name... and price.
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The 2009 Fèvre Chablis are 3-D, technicolor; wines packed with dense, ripe citrus, a wild and soaring florality that still overflows with Chablisienne minerality, that "oyster shell, tidal pool and iodine" the Burghound refers to in his review.
If you aren't already addicted to Chablis, this is the wine that could send you over the top.
As compared to the rigorous and formal 07 and 08s, the 2009s are explosive, curvaceous, with generous mid-palates awash with fruit. While the 2009s are not as chiseled as their predecessors, believe us Fèvre's 2009s DO NOT lack in the acid or mineral departments. They simply balance the weight with structure.
The 2009s are going to drink beautifully all summer - no doubt these are more hedonistic, more immediately seductive than their 07 and 08 predecessors (a good thing - we need something to crack while we let the 07s and 08s mellow). Still, for those of you working on your Vaulorent vertical, the 2009 has the guts to power on for at least a decade.
For the past couple of years, we've asserted that Domaine William Fèvre now deserves to be considered in the upper echelon of Chablis, alongside the Masters Raveneau and Dauvissat; their lineup from 2009 only reinforces our point. Yet, comparatively speaking, Fèvre remains a steal.
We've gone long ourselves, hoping to keep this around and on the shelf through the dog days of summer, but our history with this bottling in previous vintages is for fast sell-outs. Stock up now while you can.
To order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
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Burghound: "A classic nose of oyster shell, tidal pool, iodine, green fruit and dried white flowers is very much in keeping with the concentrated, powerful and serious middle weight flavors that culminate in a sappy finish of superb length. This is impressive."
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