Back Up The Truck:
Aged Muscadet Steal
2002 Haut Bourg
Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu Origine
The Crush team tasted Haut Bourg's 2002 Muscadet Origine and we immediately moved to buy all that we could.
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I can't think of a smarter buy or a more impressive value. It's unheard of to see wines from a great vintage with over a decade of age on them at this price.
Origine is Haut Bourg's late release that sees extended lees contact. Think along the lines of Pepiere's Clisson and Trois.
Whereas Clisson and Trois see two and three years of lees aging, respectively, Haut Bourg's sees seven years under lees plus bottle aging.
The results are really impressive. Think of Muscadet's saline mineral cut endowed with depth and complexity. Haut Bourg's 02 Origine combines the beautiful sea breeze notes of Muscadet with a weightier, more complicated palate presence. Hints of those honey and hay notes that you get from Chablis sneak in too.
It's this combination of weight, zingy citrus notes and bracing, jagged minerality that makes the wines so captivating and versatile. Finding wines under the $20 mark that offer real interest is very difficult; finding something like Haut Bourg's 02 with the intriguing nuance that age brings is all but impossible.
This is why we strongly suggest that you go deep.
In the Loire, 2002 is easily one of the best vintages of the past 20 years. With that said, '02 Muscadets are particularly successful. The wines have an intensity and punch while maintaining Muscadet's beautiful mineral freshness.
Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu is a sub-section of Muscadet that surrounds Lac de Grandlieu. Growers will tell you that the lake (the largest natural one in Europe) provides a slightly warmer climate that allows for better ripening.
Haut Bourg is one of those don't miss deals that come along and then disappear. This is a great wine to have on hand for aperitifs, for East Coast Oysters that are just starting to hit their peak and for seafood and white meats.
As we said earlier, we suggest that you stock up. Vintages like 2002 don't come along very often, and neither do deals like this.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits