The 2017 Lisagathe was one of the standouts in a tasting of over twenty wines.
Lisagathe is Hureau's top wine. In 2017, it's a stunning bottle.
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We're fond of calling Hureau's wines "honest." What we mean is that they are subtle and unmediated expressions of Cabernet Franc. There's no effort made to buff out all of the edges, and the wines are more characterful and compelling for it.
Hureau turns out very impressive wines but does so without flash or artifice. Much of the attention that Saumur receives goes to producers with grand ambitions - Roches Neuves, Clos Rougeard, Guiberteau, Collier, etc. We're fans of these wines, but they carry a certain polish and drive toward perfection that's appropriate to the world stage they want to participate in. Hureau operates differently.
What Lisagathe does offer is one of the most blatantly mineral expressions of Cab Franc around. It comes from some of the best terroirs in Saumur and is sourced from Hureau's oldest vines, which were planted in 1952. They produce especially structured wines.Â
The area around Saumur is famous for tuffeau soils. Tuffeau is chalky limestone soil. The 2017 Lisagathe is profoundly textural with a tension-filled, gripping minerality. It boasts loads of refinement, purity of fruit, and precision. There are notes of spice, licorice, tobacco, sandalwood, and dark red fruits, each seamlessly melding into one another. It possesses an amazing depth and internal architecture. You can tell that it's destined for a long life.
Its breeding, directness, and price make it stand out. Lisagathe is always a very strong wine, but in 2017 it's a home run. Don't miss.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
