Benchmark Trousseau Arrives in the U.S.
2007 Gahier Trousseau Grand Vergers
Perfumed, Nervous, Savage... Just Like We Like It
When you discuss Trousseau with people in Jura, two names always come up: Gahier and Puffeney. The quality of Puffeney's wine is well known in the U.S., but until recently Gahier has been totally off the radar in our parts. Thankfully, this summer, all that changed...
Getting this offer together has not been easy.
I've been trying to get enough wine together for this email since May, when the Gahier was, quite literally, fresh off the boat. To be honest, if I didn't really, really like this wine, I would have done the sensible thing and pursued other interests.
But I wanted to get this into as many of your hands as possible. So, through sheer stubbornness (and, yes, some begging), I've finally got enough wine together for this small offering - this is going out only to those who have purchased wines from the Jura and other byroads of the wine world.
Today we offer the 2007 Gahier Trousseau Grand Vergers at as low as $25.65 a bottle on the three-pack. At today's pricing, this is a no-brainer for people who enjoy the airy perfume and nervosity of mountain wines.
Trousseau is a tricky, difficult grape. It doesn't yield well, so quantities are often low, and astounding results aren't guaranteed. However, in the hands of the chosen few, it delivers Jura's most structured, savory and ageworthy red.
Quite simply, Gahier's Trousseau Grand Vergers is a benchmark for this difficult grape. Compared to Puffeney, the elder statesman of Trousseau, Gahier crafts a Trousseau that's more lithe, elegant and aromatic.
This is a red wine with such focus, poise and verve that its structure recalls a white wine. The flavor profile, however, is more in the vein of a wine from southern France born in a brisk mountain environment. Dark cherry fruit is complemented by a meaty quality, crushed leaves, forceful minerality and extroverted aromatics of spice, bright red fruits and game. This is Trousseau with a ton of lift and precision.
Part of what sets Gahier apart from the rest of the pack is surely that his vines are in the sweet spot for Trousseau: Montigny-les-Arsures, a wine village just outside of Arbois where the graviers gras (fat gravel) soils are perfectly suited to Trousseau. Unsurprisingly, Montigny is also home to Puffeney's Trousseau vines. (Pictured Above: Trousseau vines in Montigny. Grand Vergers is near the houses.)
I have to admit that I have a soft spot for this wine. While visiting Jura in 2007, Gahier was recommended to me by Stephane Planche, owner of Jardin de St. Vincent wineshop in Arbois, and Jean-Paul Jeunet, sommelier at Jura's best restaurant. I drank a bottle of the 05 Grand Vergers and promptly returned to Planche's shop the next day to buy two more (the most I could justify carrying in my luggage) to cellar.
When I saw the 07 mentioned in importer Neal Rosenthal’s portfolio as arriving soon, I immediately asked to taste and then, after tasting, tried to buy a large amount. I was told that there wasn't enough wine. Lots of begging later, and here we are - still a small parcel, but worth sharing today.
As we transition into September’s cooler temperatures, Gahier’s Trousseau is an ideal red wine - its bright acidity and well-structured tannins also make it the perfect counterpoint to hearty autumn and winter dishes (one colleague heard I was writing this email and went off quite exuberantly about how well a Trousseau paired with a pork chop and squash purée last fall).
While a vintage like 05 really needs eight years or more to display its full potential, Gahier’s 07 is drinking well now, though it will continue to improve over the next two to three years. Quantities, as has been stated above, are very limited. Give us your maximum order, and we'll allocate accordingly.
To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
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