The Heir Apparent
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon
The Greatest Deal in Burgundy?
Dominique Lafon is one of the greatest winemakers in France. He is also a pioneer.
Over ten years ago, Lafon decided to venture out, beyond his rather coveted confines in Meursault, to the "wilderness" of the Macon, a region of rambling hills and vineyards just over 90 kilometers south of the Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Sensing the potential, Lafon began a small, 14-hectare domaine here in 1999 - Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon (which translates to "the heirs of Comte Lafon"). Only the terroir has changed, the philosophies that have made Comtes Lafon one of the most prestigious names in white Burgundy, are employed here as well, including organic and biodynamic farming.
We've been familiar with these wines for many years - casual encounters with the 2002s, 2005s and 2007s impressed enough to have the soft-yellow labels etched into our brains.
Anytime a value white Burg was the need, this was the easy, the obvious, the sure-fire call. It never failed.
Always very, very good, Héretiers du Lafon has grown over the last 5+ years, in tandem with the estate in Meursault. Dominique is one of the most thoughtful winemakers out there, very few details aren't considered and everything begins, as it should, in the soil. He has become one of the more passionate and dedicated advocates of organic and biodynamic farming.
A few weeks ago we were at a fun little private tasting, getting a first look at many of the 2011s that are just hitting the shores. When the Héretiers was popped open, the (affordable!) fireworks began.
These are wines, this is an estate, that has never been in better form and even with the wines getting better and better each year, the prices remain simply LUDICROUS.
Heading into fall, into the land of earlier sunsets, leaves on the ground and warm wooden tables filled with heartier fare, this is one of those ultra-versatile wines. You can't have enough in the pantry.
The style is, well, Comtes Lafon - and that's a very good thing. The 2011 Macon-Village, sourced from two plots in two villages, a total of only 1.8 hectares(!), has great palate weight, a presence that feels much, much deeper and weightier than most wines in this price-range - to say nothing of wines in the $20-$30 range.
The palate is ripe with a beautiful mélange of citrus and stone fruit, yet the real magic here, the thrill, is in the proportions, in the balance and the polished acidity and the refreshment.
This is the dance that is at the heart of all great white Burgundy, from Lafon to Leflaive to Roulot to Coche-Dury. While the Grand Crus of all these producers command prices that soar into four-digits, this is Lafon at a much, much, MUCH more reasonable tariff.
There are few better values anywhere in Burgundy. The value is huge, quantities are not. If you're considering the case-buy, email us sooner rather than later.
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To order, please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits