Breathtaking Equilibrium: 2013 Julian Haart Schubertslay Kabinett

Posted by Joe Salamone

Breathtaking Equilibrium
2013 Julian Haart Schubertslay Kabinett

We've been behind Julian Haart since the wines arrived on this side of the Atlantic. In 2013, an undeniable magic happened with the Kabinett range.

A while back, we offered Goldtröpfchen Kabinett. Today, we focus on Schubertslay, a sub-parcel of Goldtröpfchen with vines planted 1905. This is a bottle that has become a staff favorite.

Haart sources the Schubertslay Kabinett from a cooler section of the vineyard. In 2013, the vintage's electric acidity marries beautifully with the density that is Haart's signature. There's a gripping minerality and saturating complexity braced by a captivating agility.

Haart's Schubertslay Kabinett delivers such poise along with an unmistakable palate presence. It's something that we can't stop turning to in the warm months. However, as tempting as that sounds, it would be a mistake to drink your entire stash over the summer. The harmony and acid backbone make us excited to see how this will blossom with 5-7 years in the cellar.

Julian's biography is colorful: Dropping out of school to learn cooking, Julian ended up working at GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, one of the finest restaurants in Germany. The kitchen experience eventually led him to throw himself into wine. His roster of wine apprenticeships is nothing short of unbelievable: Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller, Werner Schönleber and Rheinhard Löwenstein.

Haart is a tiny estate. Until recently Haart was only 1.5ha. Regardless of how impressive the work he's doing is (check out David Schildknecht's notes in the Wine Advocate), it's taken some time for word to get out on Haart. He is slowly beginning to gain much deserved recognition; a recent nod in the New York Times highlights this.

Quantities are very limited. 2013 was a very low yielding vintage for the Mosel, but Haart was especially hard hit.

To order, reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2013 Julian Haart Schubertslay Kabinett