Brilliance in the Saar - 2016 Lauer GGs: Kupp & Feils

Posted by Joe Salamone

Lauer’s 2016s have a beautiful harmony and are crystal clear in their expression.

The collection reaches its greatest heights in the trio of Grosses Gewächs. The Schonfels GG was my wine of the year. Today, we finish the trilogy with the Kupp and Feils (formerly known as Saarfeilser.)

Both GGs are brilliantly clear and have a finely tuned balance. The differences between the respective sites really jump out at you.

Starting with Kupp, this is Lauer’s most famous vineyard and one of the great sites of the Saar. Sourced from the best parcels in the vineyard, the Kupp GG is one of the most complete wines of the Saar. The 2016 manages a beautiful combination of silky richness and luminous lift. There's a very complicated presentation of herbs, citrus, stony minerality and spice.

Feils is a top site for Lauer and one of the great under-the-radar vineyards of the Saar. It's a unique site for the Saar, hugging the river and benefitting from the warm microclimate, complex slate and alluvial soil. The Feils GG reflects the site with a jaw-dropping textural density and driving momentum. Lauer has an incredible ability to render the site's power and weight and introduce a rigor and delicacy to it. The 2016 has depth and complexity to spare. It has a really compelling drive and elegance. You can find the explanation of the name change in David Schildknecht's tasting note below.)

I'll wrap this up. Lauer is one of the pillars of our German program and if you're receiving this offer, you likely already know the deal. The 2016 Lauer GGs are an opportunity to see him in top form.

To order, reply to or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits

2016 Lauer GGs:
Kupp & Feils GG (formerly Saarfeilser)

2016 Kupp GG
Special Email Bottle Price: $55.95

David Schildknecht, Vinous Media: "Ripe white peach and mirabelle dominate on the nose, though there are intimations of the alkaline and stony mineral notes that subsequently rise to prominence. Full and creamy in feel – but not heavy, opaque or lacking in primary juiciness – the palate impression is seductively rich. White pepper, alkali and crushed stone offer invigorating tactile counterpoint on the prodigious, lusciously fruited finish, while marine mineral salts serve for saliva-inducement."

2016 Biebelhausener Feils GG (formerly Saarfeilser)

Special Email Bottle Price: $55.95

David Schildknecht, Vinous Media: "The source of this wine is the same holdings in the Saarfeilser Marienberg vineyard that have been identified on recent Lauer labels as Schodener Saarfeilser. (Why? See the conclusion of this note.) Site-typical smoke and crushed stone notes share aromatic billing with sea breeze alkalinity, salinity and scents of kelp as well as with licorice and ripe pear. Each time I stick my nose into the glass, I experience something new. The palate is glossy and full but avoids heaviness, and the long finish is sumptuous as well as multifaceted. There are a mere four grams of residual sugar present; however, the wine is anything but austere. I can appreciate someone insisting that it’s also anything but Saar-typical. That is only partly a function of Lauer’s stylistic approach and owes at least as much to the warmth and cobbled soils of this steep riverside site. An explanation of that name change: Because the Saarfeilser slope is spread across three communes – Ayl, Schoden and Wiltingen – there are legal complications. (The Lochs, for instance, have no choice but to misleadingly label their wine from the Wiltingen portion as “Wiltinger Schlangengraben.”) Florian Lauer recently registered the cadaster name “Feils,” but because Ayl and neighboring Biebelhausen technically represent a dual commune and the parcel that informs this wine is technically in Biebelhausen (whose name is not legally affiliated with that of even a single official Einzellage), Lauer’s Feils is now technically a 'Biebelhausener.'”

Special Email 6-Pack Price (3 of each): $299.70 ($49.95/btl)