Brims with soul - 2010 Jaugaret St. Julien

Posted by Joe Salamone

"For me, the importance of a place like Domaine du Jaugaret in St.-Julien cannot be overstated... Jaugaret brims with soul."

-Eric Asimov

Tasting Jaugaret's St. Julien is eye-opening. They are, for sure, stirringly soulful and beautifully idiosyncratic Bordeauxs.

Domaine du Jaugaret's owner, Jean-François Fillastre, is over seventy years old and makes wine in a similar way to the old wisemen of the Northern Rhône, like Verset and Gentaz-Dervieux. These are characterful wines with an unmediated honesty.

There's no doubt that most Bordeaux producers have pushed extraction and have steadily buffed their wines to a nice polished sheen. Those lucky enough to have tasted Bordeauxs from the 60s and 70s understand the grace and subtlety that Bordeaux can deliver. This is exactly where Jaugaret's 2010 St. Julien takes you.

The wines from his tiny 1.3ha domaine are in stark contrast to large châteaux that surround it. Of course, the Neal Rosenthal back-label should suggest that this wine is no standard bottle of Bordeaux.

Indeed, in clarity and expression, in style, in soul, Jaugaret stands right there with the likes of Bea, Fourrier, Pradeaux, etc. More than just a great wine, this is an important wine. As quoted by Eric Asimov, Fillastre says: "I’m not making wines for consumers... I’m making wines for my own pleasure."

The result is one of the most fascinating expressions of Bordeaux that you'll encounter. They are haunting, pure expressions of St. Julien. There's an outrageous finesse to the wines and their dancing, complex minerality is heartbreaking.

We've loved these wines from the first time that we tasted them. The 2010 is one of the most impressive, and most structured, vintages that we've encountered. It has an ample amount of tannin, acid and ripeness. The combination results in a wine that seems destined to age a very long time on its concentration and its balance.

As we've written before, this is not an inexpensive bottle of wine. However, the quality, the craftsmanship, the artistry and soul - this is all here in spades and there is just no denying the fact this wine has more depth and nuance and intrigue than an ocean of Bordeaux that gushes through the market at 2, 3 and 4x the price.

Jaugaret represents a sadly fading traditionalism and stubbornly individual vision. This is something precious and exciting. Highly recommended.

To order, please email us at or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Joe Salamone

Wine Buyer

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