Burgundy's Little Secret
- Perfect Provenance:
1996 Drouhin Beaune
1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge
There have been many times when amidst a sea of Grand Crus on the table, it was the bottle of Mouches that's empty at the end of the night.
This goes a long way in showing just how special Drouhin's Clos des Mouches is. Check out Burghound and you'll find recently tasted bottles of '28 and '64.
If Beaune is known for being somewhat sturdy and rustic, Clos des Mouches is something of an anomaly. Clos des Mouches boasts a striking elegance and textural refinement. With age, Mouches is simply beguiling with showstopping aromatics and haunting finesse.
I'm very happy to have landed this parcel of ex-cellar 1996 Clos des Mouches Rouge that's drinking beautifully right now.
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The 1996 explodes with bright red berry fruit, complex floral notes, earth tones and spices. All of it is built around a fine core of minerality. There's gorgeous authority, precision and length.
I have to confess that the first time I tasted the 1996 my expectations weren't high. The reception of the wine when it was young wasn't enthusiastic. With time though, the wines have blossomed. I've tasted the '96 a handful of times over the past few years and each time it's shown amazingly well. If you check out recent notes on Cellar Tracker, you'll see that my experiences aren't unusual. The bottle is singing these days.
Across the board, Drouhin produced stunning 1996s. The vintage can be somewhat mixed with some absolutely stunning wines and some overly stern and hard edged wines. Drouhin's '96s are spectatular in their balance and texture.
Clos des Mouches was one of the first sites that Joseph Drouhin bought in the 1920s. The site itself is situated in a choice mid-slope location smack against Beaune's border with Pommard. The old vines claw into hard limestone soils that contribute to Mouches' telltale firm and elegant mineral spine.
These days it's very rare that I'm able to offer perfectly stored aged Red Burgundy, especially at this price point. I suggest that you jump on this.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
1er Cru Clos des Mouches Red