Chablis' King & Queen: 2012 Fevre Clos & Preuses

Posted by Ian McFadden

Chablis' King & Queen
2012 Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru
Les Clos & Les Preuses

"Akin to sucking on rocks it is so mineral-inflected. Brilliant."

Burghound's note above about the Clos illuminates Fèvre's 2012 collection.

2012 is a vintage of startlingly purity, incisive focus and a sneaky but serious depth. Fèvre exploited the vintage in a profound way.

The wines are still young, but the consensus is that 2012 (along with 2008 and 2010) is one of the strongest Chablis vintages of recent years.

I should pause and repeat once again that Fèvre offers some of the best value in White Burgundy. These bottles are yet another example of this.

Among Chablis' Grand Crus, Les Clos is the undisputed king. Les Clos is as powerful and densely mineral as Chablis gets. It is Chablis at its most statuesque, dazzling and complex. All of its power and seashell minerality are married to supreme elegance. And when it comes to Les Clos, Fèvre nails it. Fèvre’s Les Clos highlights the breeding and mineral-saturated concentration of this Grand Cru, while rendering it chiseled and cut.

The 2012 Clos is just jam-packed with minerality. "[It] exudes a seemingly endless reserve of minerality," writes Burghound. Like much of Burgundy, yields were way down for Fevre in 2012 and Clos was one of the hardest hit vineyards. What resulted is Clos distilled - muscular, mineral and intensely aristocratic.

Preuses works at an entirely different (but equally compelling) register. It's one of the best of Chablis' Grand Crus and a personal favorite of ours. Les Preuses is a south-facing vineyard known for producing regally mineral and floral wines. If Clos is commanding, Preuses is seductive. Its minerality is more emphasized, more linear and more detailed. In other words, Preuses is for purists.

In 2012, Preuses stands as an archetype of the feminine elegance that this Grand Cru is so loved for. For all its delicacy, it delivers a beautiful building complexity on the finish. Burghound calls it "explosive." And that may be the best pithy summary. Regardless, it's stunning.

Both of these represent the pinnacles of a ridiculously strong collection. Quantities are limited.

To order, please email us at or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits