Coche-Dury Gone Red

Posted by Ian McFadden

Coche-Dury in Red
99, 02 & 09 Volnay 1er Cru,
2009 Monthelie, Meursault Rouge &
Bourgogne Rouge

"Given their consistently superb quality, Coche-Dury red wines may well be the ultimate 'insider’s wines' in all of Burgundy."
-John Gilman

Coche-Dury makes only white wines - it seems an almost unquestionable truth, along with the sun rising in the east, setting in the west. Death and taxes. That sort of thing.

But in fact Coche also makes red wines.

And the main reason they aren't better known is that, even by Burgundy standards, by any standards, the quantities made are absurdly small. For example, only 75 cases are made each vintage of his Meursault Rouge - the parcel is just .14ha. That's just about a third of an acre and the equivalent of a suburban lot, and a smaller one at that.

Still, one hears rumors of the wines now and again. Burgundy fanatics talk about sightings of Coche reds the way residents of Roswell might have spoken about visitors from the night sky some time ago.

It's a fascinating trip, Coche's reds. Like the whites, they are very concentrated, show great detail and a riveting clarity of expression.

The Bourgogne Rouge transcends the category, which is obvious enough - and should probably be expected given the price. Still, it could put many 1er Crus to shame. In a vintage like 2009, it will power through a decade and longer, without any problems. The vines are scattered around village Meursault and the wine is full of layered dark fruits, minerals and spice.

Coche's 2009 Meursault Rouge continues the dark fruit theme of the Bourgogne Rouge, but is more lifted aromatically with smoke, spice and violets. The 2009 Monthelie Rouge has its dark berry fruit complicated by a wash of leather and minerals. Both the Meursault Rouge and the Monthelie possess long and elegant palates with really impressive energy on the back end.

Finally, there's the Volnay 1er Cru, of which there are three great vintages on offer - 99, 02 and 09. The vineyards that the Volnay 1er Cru are sourced from are two of the village's best 1er Crus, Clos des Chênes and Taillepieds. Volnay 1er Cru offers more high-toned bright cherry fruit into the mix along with a very elegant and silken palate.

These are monumental Burgundies that will age very well on their density and balance. For Coche fans, for Burgundy lovers, for people who are just interested in masterfully crafted wines, these are worth a close look.

To order, reply to this email or call the store at (212) 980-9463.

Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wines
Crush Wine & Spirits

2009 Bourgogne Rouge

No compare at available

2009 Monthelie Rouge

No compare at available

2009 Meursault Rouge

Compare at $150-200

2009 Volnay 1er Cru

No compare at available

2002 Volnay 1er Cru

No compare at available

1999 Volnay 1er Cru

Compare at $220

Coche-Dury is pre-arrival
NET | No further discount