Latest Edition from Morgon Master
2010 Foillard Morgon Côte du Py
Côte du Py, Complicated
There's very little to be said about Jean Foillard, perhaps the most renowned member of Kermit Lynch's spirited Gang of Four in Morgon, that hasn't been said already.
He's one of the greatest producers in Beaujolais, without question.
Yet there is much to say about the 2010 vintage, about how it's been received (both in Burgundy and in Beaujolais) vis-a-vis the grand old 2009s.
In Burgundy, the 2009 vintage was greeted with extreme accolades, and then, later, some reservation. On the heels of this plush vintage the 2010 Burgundies have already been welcomed as heroes, as a return to the classical, the transparent in Burgundy.
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In Beaujolais, the 2009s came in with TREMENDOUS expectations and the region saw an unprecedented engagement by a whole new audience (a Beaujo-revolution). We saw newbies, Beaujolais fanatics and seasoned Burgundy buyers going long on the 2009s, buying them by the case-load to cellar.
Then, in Beaujolais, along come the more statuesque, more nimble 2010s and all eyes seem to have gone north, to the Côte d'Or even though the 2010 Beaujolais show the exact same pristine fruit, the same clarity, the same nervy structures.
Sitting at a dinner with Josh Raynolds last spring, he was glowing about the 2010 Beaujolais: "Fruit, structure and energy. Kind of a dream brew, in a sense."
It is not a gang-buster vintage across the board, some examples simply are just a bit too angular. Yet, for those who got it right, the terroirs that enjoyed the classical 2010 vintage, produced stunning, dancing, pure wines that are compact, sinewy, with fruit that flowers, that somehow seem largely composed of polished minerals.
And this brings us to one of the greatest producers in Beaujolais: Jean Foillard.
His Côte du Py bottling presents the best of 2010 - depth and complexity with finesse, transparency and deliciousness.
While never plentiful, in 2010 Foillard's wines are in very short supply in this country. It was a shorter vintage to begin with, yet beyond that something has changed in the distribution of the great Beaujolais. They are becoming allocated, that scary word. Where in the past the U.S. retailer could basically order up as much as he/she wanted, now we get only a few cases and that's it.
Is this the new reality for top Beaujolais? Very likely, yes.
With these limited quantities and Foillard's fame, we're going to keep this short and to the point. 2010 is certainly a vintage that played into Foillard's hands. 2010s show bright clear fruits and an energy that's punctuated by a mineral streak.
With his 2010 Côte du Py, Foillard takes these characteristics and builds a multi-dimensional wine of true verve and layered complexity, all woven in silk.This is clearly from Morgon's famous, and likely best, site, the Cote du Py, strutting the site's signature wild cherry fruit complicated by spices, dried herbs, raspberries, plum and a textured minerality. All of this is presented with a sense of poise and effortlessness.
These are the sorts of wines that we love: nimble, food friendly, finessed and with a sense of unmediated purity. It's safe to expect these to improve with five years in the cellar, and likely more.
As mentioned earlier, quantities are very limited. To place your order, please email us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits