Few Loire producers have jumped to the top of people's lists as quickly as Bernaudeau.
The first time I tasted Bernaudeau's Les Onglés, it was a revelation. The wines have a clarity, a deep mineral imprint, and liveliness that are fascinating and straight-up delicious.
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Stéphane Bernaudeau labels his wines Vin de France so as not to be restricted by the notions "typically" held by the governing bodies of the AOC.
Bernaudeau has just over 3ha of vines in Anjou and learned winemaking and biodynamic farming from Mark Angeli of Sansonnière, who is one of the great advocates of biodynamic winemaking in the Loire.
The wines at Bernaudeau are bottled by parcel. Les Onglés comes from a two-hectare parcel of 30-year-old vines planted on schist. The 2023 Les Onglés has an intense core of minerality that's backed by a nice raciness. I really like how it combines delicacy with punch and length.
Bernaudeau's wines are some of the purest and most energetic expressions of Chenin that you'll find.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare
Crush Wine & Spirits
