"This is simply dazzling juice." -Antonio Galloni
1999 Trinchero Barbera d'Asti Vigna del Noce Selezione Speciale
Often, Barbera feels like an afterthought in a producer's line-up. That's not the case at Trinchero. The grape gets star billing.
They are convinced that Barbera can produce very ageworthy, world class wines. Vigna del Noce Selezione Speciale is their top bottling.
It may seem unbelievable, but here's the deal: it comes from vines planted in 1929 on a choice hillside, the yields are restricted, it undergoes a very long maceration (over forty days) and the wine is then aged in a single large chestnut barrel for seven years.
When it comes to the 1999, Galloni isn't out of place to call it "dazzling" or to follow up with "This is a flat-out great bottle of wine."
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There's no doubt that this is one of the most singular and impressive wines to come out of Piedmont.
Ezio Trinchero, who runs the estate with his brother Renato, is a close friend of Giampiero Bea of Paolo Bea in Montefalco. It's hard not to feel a kinship between the two producers. They share a pull-no-punches, unyielding and heartfelt style.
The '99 instantly demands that you take notice. It delivers a ridiculous, multidimensional complexity while brimming with soul and mystery. It boasts a deep, elusive meaty quality from long, gentle exposure to oxygen while in cask. There's a shockingly vibrant core that brings a wash of dark fruits, herbs, mineral and earth. The interplay of it all is captivating.
Taste the '99 Trinchero Barbera and there's no way that you'll look at the grape the same way again. It's just mind-bendingly good.
To order, reply to offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits