Cult Northern Rhône Steal
2011 Gonon Saint-Joseph
Soulful, Elegant Northern Rhône Syrah
Over the last six years, Gonon's Saint-Josephs have gained a very serious following; they have become cult.
The reason is simple: they are authentic Northern Rhône Syrahs, devoid of artifice...and they are affordable.
To put it succinctly, Gonon's Saint-Joseph is one of the smartest purchases that you can make for your cellar. The ageability and value are just that impressive.
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Not to mention, they are some of the most soulful, traditionally rendered Syrahs you'll encounter.
It really feels like the story of 2012, as far as wine goes, was the rediscovery of the greatness of traditionally made Northern Rhône.
It's been incredible to watch what's happened to the retired Rhône traditionalists, really. Gentaz-Dervieux is now a ghost wine that commands four-figures when it surfaces. Old Verset is heading dangerously close to the $500 mark.
We've been happy to see the interest in traditional Northern Rhône, but it's difficult to see the prices climb to where they have. Thankfully, Gonon's Saint-Josephs are an extension of the traditional philosophies of the Rhône's old masters and their prices make buying in some depth fairly painless.
The connection with the old traditionalists is a tangible one. The Gonon's received some of Saint-Joseph's old wiseman, Raymond Trollat's, vines.
Gonon's wines have a purity, a clarity and breed that is uncommon. It's that simple. This is Saint-Joseph that is delicate and intricate, that is slightly wild, a finely detailed presentation of blackberries, olives, violets, spice and forest floor notes wrapped around a smoke-infused minerality.
These are Saint-Josephs of classical proportions; having as much, if not more, to do with Burgundy than with the muscular, extracted brutes this region has become internationally known for.
The 2011 vintage in the Northern Rhône accentuates Gonon's elegant and finely balanced style. 2011s are really lovely in their finesse, their poise and their bright clear fruit and floral characteristics.
The days of Trollot, of Gentaz, of Verset are fading, things are changing - but all is not lost. There is a new generation of great traditionalists, and when the book is written the Gonons will figure very prominently, no doubt.
You know the story here - one parcel only, very limited, and likely to sell out with some rapidity. To order, please emails us at offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Ian McFadden
Director, Fine & Rare Wine
Crush Wine & Spirits
2011 Gonon Saint-Joseph