This Chardonnay-based blend reaches toward a Burgundy of the past, through the limestone soils of Germany's Mosel.
As we've written before, it’s only a 20-minute drive from the sacred slate of Egon Müller and Peter Lauer to the forgotten Kimmeridgian limestone of the other, the forgotten Mosel Valley... the Obermosel.
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Yet the Obermosel has little to do with Riesling.
Here, through Chardonnay and Elbling, the wines of Jonas Dostert provide something of a hallowed bridge, a meeting point between the Saar and Burgundy.
From the Saar, Dostert's top wines receive their rawness, their essential quality; from Burgundy, their delicacy and finesse.
Yet they are neither the Saar nor Burgundy; they are the Obermosel.
Dostert's 2023ers are nothing short of masterpieces; yet it is the "Pure Dolomite" bottling, a cuvee of Chardonnay (60%) and Elbling (40%) from dolomitic limestone, that perhaps best speaks to this place and to the singular touch of Jonas Dostert.
The wine feels weightless; it is awash in floral aromatics, with bright yellow fruits and a simply mouth-coating minerality: saline and chalky. The wine has an ultra-fine acidity, yet it feels effortless, serpentine, and satiny.
Think of a Chablis polished to a needle—a Kabinett Trocken sculpted from Chardonnay and Elbling.
Dostert's wines benefit from a bit of breathing time or even a gentle decant. We've had wines that show even better on day two; if you can, consider cellaring a few bottles.
With less than three hectares, total, under vine, the wines of Jonas Dostert are rare treats.
To order, email offers@crushwineco.com or call the store at (212) 980-9463.
Joe Salamone
Wine Buyer
Crush Wine & Spirits
